tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-88635363041681257102024-03-06T00:41:18.907-08:00L and L Home Improvements LtdL anc L have 3 branches including Bases and Foundations, Landscaping and a Interior / Exterior Painting & Decorating service.
Why have several companies when you can just get one!Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger53125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8863536304168125710.post-30901346407805347502013-03-02T12:51:00.001-08:002013-03-02T12:51:01.802-08:00painting radiators<br />
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Giving an old radiator a fresh coat of paint can often give what was once an eyesore, a whole new lease of life. If you are going to paint an old radiator, then you will need suitable solvent-based radiator paint, a chunky paint brush and a dust sheet to avoid getting paint on your carpet or flooring.<br />
Before painting a radiator it is important to turn it off and allow it to cool down. Rub the surface down with 'wet and dry' abrasive paper and warm water with a little detergent added. Rinse, clean and dry. Any bare areas should be primed. This will provide protection from rust and provide excellent adhesion for subsequent coats. You can then paint the radiator with solvent-based paints. Special radiator brushes that have a long handle and angled bristles are very handy for painting any hard-to-reach areas.<br />
Once painted you should allow the paint to fully dry before turning the radiator on again. When you do so for the first time you may experience a paint smell - this is normal and will quickly disappear. <br/><br/><div class="separator"style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-gNZtZY7m4UJP461fCHH-lCI6g05W-Rd4Fpo6TniGzIorrkDqIhh9_bF7xvrrbenipezaxxwCg7Lwc6xf3wmEFhlv8-KWqjAU4rmmkLW3wAJAgkT_yv19IdXFA4xW5jUKKnNwbydU0MUG/s640/blogger-image--1407999213.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-gNZtZY7m4UJP461fCHH-lCI6g05W-Rd4Fpo6TniGzIorrkDqIhh9_bF7xvrrbenipezaxxwCg7Lwc6xf3wmEFhlv8-KWqjAU4rmmkLW3wAJAgkT_yv19IdXFA4xW5jUKKnNwbydU0MUG/s640/blogger-image--1407999213.jpg" /></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8863536304168125710.post-4439754467447077162013-03-02T12:49:00.001-08:002013-03-02T12:49:55.675-08:00Decking treatments<br />
UV light causes the greatest degree of breakdown in wood products. Failure to treat your deck will result in deterioration to the appearance. Ultra Violet (UV light) is a form of high energy, which is of a particular wavelength that is able to penetrate the surface of wood. Because it is high energy it actually breaks down and destroys the cellulose structure of timber. Over a period of time depending on how long the exposure is and how concentrated the UV is, wood turns grey and eventually you will find the surface powders.<br />
Depending on traffic volumes and weathering you will need to apply a maintenance coat which will involve washing down the surface with a light detergent soap and then re-coating.<br />
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Water based decking stain are formulated to colour and protect pre-treated, pressure treated or preservative impregnated timber. It may also be used over wax pre-treated decking. The combination of acrylic and polyurethane alkyd resins provide the ultimate protection for decking timber. Stain waterproofs and protects the decking, whilst providing a durable scuff resistant surface which will resist cracking, peeling and blistering. The stains would have darker pigments than the oils. The advantage of a stain and seal decking product over a straight stain is that your wood is coloured and protected in one single treatment.<br />
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Oils tend to preserve wood better as they penetrate & strengthen, whereas stains do not. The oil would be a clear material with no pigments added, they would enhance the natural grain without adding colour. A good quality decking oil will protect your deck at the same time as reviving and restoring its colour. Decking oils can also come in a range of colours, including clear. The colours can dramatically change the colour of your decking if you’re not careful.<br />
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Depending on the condition of your deck and your desired look, with a bit of planning, decking paint can be a good solution. The main issue with painting a deck is keeping it looking good as weather and time take their toll. If not properly finished, a painted deck has a tendency to peel and look worn quicker<br />
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Decking preservative is the generic term used to describe any specialist decking product which is designed to protect the wood. Generally speaking the list will include oils and seals. Which you choose will depend to a large extent on the final finish you’re hoping for and the condition of your deck.<br />
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www.homeimprovementsdirect.co.uk is the quickest way to have decking installed and protected. <br/><br/><div class="separator"style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvDMeNzkXAssZU44n8KbVMlMMorgn2L43SA7aj_ye0Z8szj0TQi0aeIp011dMqjd-s4Jq2xS_h_I8PBOJtxH_NSCkWZzmiY90KkcYsnv_fVtBGc5PS_uto4y8qrK2tml7ZmqwhxzQZ70Dq/s640/blogger-image--870080467.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvDMeNzkXAssZU44n8KbVMlMMorgn2L43SA7aj_ye0Z8szj0TQi0aeIp011dMqjd-s4Jq2xS_h_I8PBOJtxH_NSCkWZzmiY90KkcYsnv_fVtBGc5PS_uto4y8qrK2tml7ZmqwhxzQZ70Dq/s640/blogger-image--870080467.jpg" /></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8863536304168125710.post-54625534536064320142013-03-02T12:48:00.001-08:002013-03-02T12:48:11.426-08:00wood or laminate flooring<br />
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One of the most sought after amenities in a home is wood flooring. From its natural appearance and warmth underfoot, wood is beautiful and timeless. Older traditional homes with their original hardwood floors are one of the pros of buying older homes. Assess the traffic load and wear and tear on flooring in your home. How durable your wood flooring is will help with maintenance and keep it looking great for years to come.<br />
Take into consideration the cost of laminate and hardwood flooring to determine what is best for you.<br />
Laminate wood flooring is made from composite wood pressed together at high temperatures. Since laminate wood flooring is made from pressed wood it is more durable and resists scratches, moisture and wear and tear better than hardwood flooring. Laminate flooring is also easier to clean on a routine basis. Even though laminate is more durable it is not as visually appealing and lower qualities of laminate may have artificial looking wood grain textures. Laminate flooring doesn’t repair easily. If you buy flooring that comes in individual pieces and snapped together, you may be able to replace. Although, depending on sunlight and age, the new piece may not match properly. <br />
Hardwood flooring is made from harvested trees and depending on how exotic the trees are will depict the pricing. Hardwood is considerably higher to buy and to install. Hardwood is susceptible to scratching, can get damaged from excessive moisture and will show wear, especially in heavy trafficked areas in your home. Hardwood is the ‘real deal’. It is gorgeous to look at and depending on the variety can add considerable value to your home. Hardwood can be repaired by sanding and refinishing out imperfections. This advantage gives hardwood a plus over laminate, in that it will last for years into the future. <br/><br/><div class="separator"style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdKRaWroFKSCJcK3RMT0rCOBPH4qSP8YfzvIQMbl6Idl2tBiDqwx17smDAQ6XtEvPP9-Tc_zz91vSk_RLWNVvqeSEwzndl39SSVRy24DlFuPubQvntWNKB2veh5tFTrUSEG-ELEfeGp5TX/s640/blogger-image--850541025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdKRaWroFKSCJcK3RMT0rCOBPH4qSP8YfzvIQMbl6Idl2tBiDqwx17smDAQ6XtEvPP9-Tc_zz91vSk_RLWNVvqeSEwzndl39SSVRy24DlFuPubQvntWNKB2veh5tFTrUSEG-ELEfeGp5TX/s640/blogger-image--850541025.jpg" /></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8863536304168125710.post-13589661541194514472013-02-28T12:07:00.001-08:002013-02-28T12:07:31.545-08:00Materials for Garden pathwaysMulch and gravel are the cheapest path materials you can buy, and they make construction simple too. You can also construct paths from paving slabs, bricks, blocks, decking and concrete as well as other materials.<br />
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Installing Bricks and blocks Usually the main stumbling block is making the path smooth and flat. Keep in mind that we designed our paths for foot traffic and other light use. Don't try to drive on it. We have 2 ways of laying a path. One way to lay a path is set only on sand, it won't stay as flat and smooth as a traditional paver walk set on a compacted gravel bed. It's ideal for narrower secondary walks in a garden or back yard, where slight imperfections and undulations add to its character. And if an edge stone gets loose from a wheelbarrow bouncing over it, you can reset it in minutes. Expect to pull an occasional weed growing up in the joints. Or if you prefer an English cottage look, encourage moss or other ground covers to grow in the joints.<br />
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Mulch and gravel paths can be meandering, wood chip–covered trails or carefully planned designs, and range from casual to formal depending on the design and edging material. You can choose from a wide variety of loose materials including coarse bark, decorative mulch, washed stones and crushed gravel or shells.<br />
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Mulch<br />
Bark, wood chips and other types of organic mulch make soft paths that blend well with natural settings. Since these path materials are lighter than stone, they’re easier to haul and spread. Mulch is also a bit cheaper than gravel or stone pebbles. Remember, though, that organic paths decompose over time, so you’ll have to rejuvenate them every two to five years with new material. Also, don’t use bark, wood chips or mulch for paths that run through areas with poor drainage or that are wet. It’ll lead to a soggy path.<br />
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Gravel<br />
For a path that’s more formal or longer lasting than a mulch path, consider washed gravel, crushed stone or crushed shells. These materials last indefinitely and only need occasional weeding to look their best. If you want to run a wheelbarrow or lawn mower along the path, choose crushed stone rather than smooth pebbles. The jagged edges of crushed stone lock together to form a firm surface. Crushed stone is also less likely to get kicked out into the yard.<br />
Gravel paths do have a few limitations, though. The stones can get tracked into the house, so don’t use them near entries. And gravel paths are a bad choice in areas where you have to shovel snow off them. The gravel can end up in your lawn or flower beds.<br />
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You can use garden decking to create a beautiful path which with certain lighting can look modern or blend in and give a natural feel and look. The natural warm colour and texture of wood will compliment any garden design and even the smallest of paths can change how the area looks.<br />
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Borders and edging<br />
Gravel or mulch paths require edging to keep the material from spreading out onto your lawn or flower bed. You can also add a border or an edge as a design element. Here are some common types of edging you can use:<br />
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Plastic landscape edging is cheap. And it’s fast and easy to install. If you object to the look of the rounded top edge, hide it with a border of plants.<br />
Steel or aluminum edging forms a crisp edge that gives the path a neat appearance. It costs more than plastic, though, and is less forgiving on sloped terrain.<br />
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Brick and stone borders are attractive and versatile, but they’re more expensive and a lot more work to install.<br />
Concrete edging is less expensive than brick or stone but has the same advantages. Newer types that look like random pieces of tumbled stone are a great lower-cost alternative to a real stone border.<br />
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Stepping-stones are the fastest, easiest way to build a path. There’s very little digging involved. And although the stone is heavy, a little goes a long way. Since there’s distance between the stones, you don’t have to worry about leveling them with one another. Stepping-stone paths also cost less because you’ll cover more distance with less stone. <br />
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There are quite a few perennial plants that can withstand foot traffic and will grow between stones. Check with your local nursery to see what’s available that will grow in your area. Here are some ground cover plants that can tolerate some foot traffic: Creeping Thyme, Blue Star Creeper, Brass Buttons, Creeping Mazus and Sedum.<br />
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L & L are happy to give you some ideas and install paths for you.<br />
<br/><br/><div class="separator"style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBZmaO2cX4UNR5aHK3BlibOt65s7wVqBzQPveOVKGhp6krExFN_UC1UyL5oM4Z0aKJnh_aZA13aRCQGxAtv-aKts544TSHMvXs7rYSUJqi3Via9iCpA4ARuApLVH7dAuOyAKQ9PyqLX2wz/s640/blogger-image--755078159.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBZmaO2cX4UNR5aHK3BlibOt65s7wVqBzQPveOVKGhp6krExFN_UC1UyL5oM4Z0aKJnh_aZA13aRCQGxAtv-aKts544TSHMvXs7rYSUJqi3Via9iCpA4ARuApLVH7dAuOyAKQ9PyqLX2wz/s640/blogger-image--755078159.jpg" /></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8863536304168125710.post-18402671763864368092013-02-26T13:16:00.001-08:002013-02-26T13:16:47.044-08:00Arbours, Pergolas and GazebosArbours, Pergolas and Gazebos<br />
The arbour has developed multiple meanings and uses. A basic definition would be it is a trellising structure, with an arched or flat roof. their primary function is aesthetics; to form an entrance way or make a stand-alone feature.<br />
Arbours can be used as outdoor seating areas for either dining with either garden furniture or picnic blankets they can be used as a secluded hidey-hole for either reading, relaxing or for play time. <br />
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Characteristic of a gazebo is that it has a covered, dome or turreted roof, with open sides. They are often octagonal, like pavilions but can be any shape. <br />
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Pergola have flat rafters, with an open roof. <br />
Neither should be confused with a pagoda which is actually a Chinese tiered tower.<br />
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A pergola, arbor or arbour is a garden feature forming a shaded walkway, passageway or sitting area of vertical posts or pillars that usually support cross-beams and a sturdy open lattice, often upon which woody vines are trained.<br />
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Pergolas may link pavilions or extend from a building's door to an open garden feature such as an isolated terrace or pool. Freestanding pergolas, those not attached to a home or other structure, provide a sitting area that allows for breeze and light sun, but offers protection from the harsh glare of direct sunlight. Pergolas also give climbing plants a structure on which to grow.<br />
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If you want a covered, domed structure, you’re looking for a gazebo. For a flat roofed, open structure to grow plants up, it’s pergola. Arches, like pergolas, can be joined together and used to cover walkways or grow fragrant grape vines from. And if you want a stand-out stand-alone aesthetic element in your garden – well, then you need an arbour. <br />
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Make a design statement with an arbor made of metal, or use a wooden arch with special details to dress up a walkway to a garden. Many arbor, pergola, and trellis projects will solve a variety of problems in your garden. Many arbor, pergola, and trellis projects work well with other landscape elements, such as a trellis in combination with a fence or screen.<br />
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L & L Home Improvements are very happy to install and create your dream hide away.<br />
<br/><br/><div class="separator"style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6BG9EGtJ90DjUlKV-DKtdN6tIDtPubjzVzqwnR2vxW09hHUQu5GEojgh4er7Bu8XfPNUHR2wdg-FrL8wzP-1qtbNgtGG1RcYdayLjbFvKJmEYTYv-azcqAi2gu7JbTZXBTSBwUOX9dxUc/s640/blogger-image--761115057.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6BG9EGtJ90DjUlKV-DKtdN6tIDtPubjzVzqwnR2vxW09hHUQu5GEojgh4er7Bu8XfPNUHR2wdg-FrL8wzP-1qtbNgtGG1RcYdayLjbFvKJmEYTYv-azcqAi2gu7JbTZXBTSBwUOX9dxUc/s640/blogger-image--761115057.jpg" /></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8863536304168125710.post-29853878387456245702013-02-26T13:12:00.001-08:002013-02-26T13:12:22.083-08:00Benefits to having a pondBuilding a pond in your garden creates variety. Not only are you getting a different experience by welcome new plants and wildlife into your garden, but you are also going to learn new things about the environment, and experience it all up close and personal. It adds beauty to your garden and will be an attraction to your friends and neighbourhood.<br />
It can be used as a key selling point when trying to sell your house, and will often dramatically increase the value of your property. Most property evaluators look at external features that you have added to your garden and will often increase the value if you having something worth their while.<br />
The visual delight of a shallow sparkling pool or a spouting fountain creates a real focul point and brings a garden to life, while the creation of a new natural habitat helps attract new wildlife to the garden.<br />
One thing that few people in this world have is a sanctuary - a safe place to hide from the rest of the world. By building a pond in your garden, you are building your own relaxing place. Listening to the running water can be soothing and relaxing, and learning about nature through the plants and animals you include can be an invigorating experience.<br />
If you have frogs and newts in your area and they are in most places in the UK then before long you should find that some find their way into your pond, at which point you can enjoy the annual process of frogspawn, tadpoles, and then seeing the little frogs that they develop into!<br />
If you have fish, then you can also keep for instance goldfish in a fishpond. Depending on how much food there is in the pond naturally (it takes time to build up) then you can leave them pretty much unfed during Summer and Autumn, then feed them through the Winter and the start of the Spring too.<br />
Goldfish are useful for eating the small insect larva and so on that build up in the pond from gnats lying their eggs and the like; if you keep goldfish then you should ensure the water is of good quality and clean - a fountain can help with aeration here, but most of all you will find that pond weed or oxygenating plants of some kind are essential to stop the water going stagnant or green.<br />
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Consider the amount of time, space, and effort you’re willing to dedicate to this project, and it will help you determine whether a pond is right for you. <br />
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Ask L & L Home Improvements to help you create your dream. <br/><br/><div class="separator"style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh10g9H3Ya-MK3c0_sh3yuP_Xguot9Z1gFO3NEHZUAVRAQBtAf3r3zljN1grcxLHRFc6Nv9PxEWj9b1vmPgVSp5eoEeGU2gJoza2Q9ynhtwmcZHSEXIjpUMQoy4EzDnJ8_wykGdCPHWnql7/s640/blogger-image--687861766.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh10g9H3Ya-MK3c0_sh3yuP_Xguot9Z1gFO3NEHZUAVRAQBtAf3r3zljN1grcxLHRFc6Nv9PxEWj9b1vmPgVSp5eoEeGU2gJoza2Q9ynhtwmcZHSEXIjpUMQoy4EzDnJ8_wykGdCPHWnql7/s640/blogger-image--687861766.jpg" /></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8863536304168125710.post-11116247804462963682013-02-07T04:38:00.001-08:002013-02-07T04:38:28.434-08:00Fasica and Eaves Repairs
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">One of the spots on the exterior of a home that can sustain
water damage is the fascia. The fascia is a board nailed across the ends of the
roof rafters and upon which a gutter hangs. Water overflow from gutters stuffed
with leaves can cause damage to a fascia, which can lead to replacement.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Taking off the gutter is a good time to check and see if the
gutter itself needs repair. Repair or replace it, if necessary<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Eaves are a vulnerable part of your house, exposed to
weather and damage by falling limbs. Luckily, they aren't too hard to repair
when the inevitable happens and repair is needed. So, if your eaves are wooden,
and you have some damage to your fascia board call L & L.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">"Fascia?" That's the name for the vertical board
or panel on the front of your eaves. Its complement is the
"soffitt"--the board that forms the bottom of the structure--and
technically, that's the only part that's really supposed to be called the
"eave."<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The first thing is getting to the eaves, which means using a
ladder. That's the dangerous part, especially if the ground where you need to
work is uneven or sloping. It's important to find or create an even, level
surface for the ladder.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Life is easy by using L & L </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><a href="http://www.homeimprovementsdirect.co.uk/">www.homeimprovementsdirect.co.uk</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUicAGWeyOdyRPEdJ9wJNW7-vaBhmv5wUOesvmAcrSDHUdbaiZ6wk0vKgFzNjjk2NM6h-t-RdOSxz0pACbfgQoUKAKpdDEu4SJzjeEX1Lk1WT9f8MCSwCuaTufy3SpTR6c1jNpAy2MqNlH/s1600/fasica.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUicAGWeyOdyRPEdJ9wJNW7-vaBhmv5wUOesvmAcrSDHUdbaiZ6wk0vKgFzNjjk2NM6h-t-RdOSxz0pACbfgQoUKAKpdDEu4SJzjeEX1Lk1WT9f8MCSwCuaTufy3SpTR6c1jNpAy2MqNlH/s1600/fasica.jpg" /></a></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8863536304168125710.post-12038065192326217272013-02-01T10:56:00.002-08:002013-02-01T10:56:33.817-08:00Cement v Wood flooringWhen choosing a floor for your shed, first consider your budget to decide what to set aside for the construction costs for the flooring. Consider which is more important to you: style and appearance or lifespan and durability. Deciding what features and elements are more important to you for your building is crucial to planning and creating the shed that is ideal for your purposes.<br />
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<u>Style</u><br />Wood has an advantage over a cement floor in appearance and style, as wood gives a rustic and country feel to the structure. A wooden floor gives the building a more home-like feel than cement. Cement is more reminiscent of a garage or out building. Using wood for the floor can give the building a more finished and visually appealing look on the interior. Wood will likely require more upkeep, such as staining and cleaning, however, to keep in pristine condition.<br />
<br /><u>Durability</u><br />Cement is a more durable and stronger surface than wood. Sheds are often used to store machinery and tools, such as tractors, lawn mowers and power tools. Taking these items in and out of the shed, moving them around the building and the accidental dropping of heavy tools would wear down and damage a wood floor more easily than a cement floor. Wood floors could become chipped or scraped by heavy objects, while a cement floor can take more of a beating.<br />
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<u>Weather and Environment</u><br />As the ground beneath and around the shed will absorb the elements of the natural environment, such as rain and snow, having concrete be the buffer between the ground and the shed will prove to be more durable than wood. Wood, even pressure treated wood, is more likely to rot and decay than cement. One way to incorporate the look and style of wood without risking the structural integrity of the building is to utilize a stone pad base. By adding a foundation of crushed stone beneath the building, the stone separates the floor of the shed from the ground, keeping it in pristine condition.<br />
<u><br />Lifespan</u><br />Cement will have a longer lifespan than a wooden floor. Cement will hold up against the wear and tear on the inside from the transportation of equipment, tools and machinery in and out and around the shed. It will also preserve the life of the building by protecting it against the outer elements of a moist ground, rain and snow. By incorporating cement into the floor of the shed, you are helping to prolong the life of the shed.<br />
<br /><u>Cost</u><br />A cement floor can be less expensive than wood, depending on the type of wood you decide to use. Woods such as pine or cedar, when used as building materials, can prove to be expensive.<br />
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<a href="http://www.homeimprovementsdirect.co.uk/services/bases-and-foundations/">http://www.homeimprovementsdirect.co.uk/services/bases-and-foundations/</a><br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8863536304168125710.post-9678275854862972352013-01-26T06:24:00.001-08:002013-01-26T06:35:55.015-08:00New landscaping AppL & L Home Improvements Ltd had commission a landscaping app to help with their business and is now available. <br />
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I myself have been a landscaper for over 10 years and in my time I noticed the same problems time and time again. See if you recognise them.<br />
The area I was covering was not so much a big area but it covered several county's. Being based near London meant that any advertising was costing me a fortune. To get any positions on advertising media which were high ranking, had a huge premium. To cover my areas with advertising i had to be selective.<br />
Have you ever turned up to a quote and realised straight away that the potential client doesn't really want you to do the work. What they really want is some ideas of what can be done with the garden, how much the parts will cost and to see if you the landscaper would be cheap enough to do the work. Basically, you travel for miles, in sometimes heavy traffic or after a long hard day you have to clean up and go off to the quote and once you are there, you just know it's pointless.<br />
The other thing I noticed was it was difficult for some clients to translate their ideas into words. They could picture the Image but not explain it fully. Or when you start getting your creative juices flowing, they could not picture how it would look. Having made many many gardens beautiful I had some great ideas, that I knew would work well, but it's convincing the client of that.<br />
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Well one day I had a brain wave and starting searching the app store for a garden design app. However there was none that could put fence panels in, decking areas, sleepers etc, so I thought " I know , I will do it myself " and here I am.<br />
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If you landscaping then this app is perfect. Very soon will be the iPhone version ! <br/><br/><div class="separator"style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdpVkBu5eqyEp4OXA1QGb2AsoEpK4d9vyrihGMEUdK6lvRpdpnivn4UFd9t38YVF6EZelYS4RBQJGsO2ySQ24qu_wtTZP6CHYhtZ3EGWXRJwYA2IDbeEynai6LrqjaXM6tO6o1tRzxcl8u/s640/blogger-image-673475552.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdpVkBu5eqyEp4OXA1QGb2AsoEpK4d9vyrihGMEUdK6lvRpdpnivn4UFd9t38YVF6EZelYS4RBQJGsO2ySQ24qu_wtTZP6CHYhtZ3EGWXRJwYA2IDbeEynai6LrqjaXM6tO6o1tRzxcl8u/s640/blogger-image-673475552.jpg" /></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0Slough Slough51.533314 -0.614297tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8863536304168125710.post-1779003560537528682012-07-24T11:36:00.001-07:002012-07-24T11:36:34.345-07:00Purpose of rain gutteringThe main purpose of a rain gutter is to protect a building's foundation by channeling water away from its base. They also help to reduce erosion, prevent leaks in basements and crawlspaces, protect painted surfaces by reducing exposure to water, and provide a means to collect rainwater for later use. Ineffective covering can lead to expensive work to the underlying timbers and any decorative finishes, which will deteriorate rapidly in damp conditions.<br />
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There are gutters and downpipes suitable for many domestic and commercial installations. Essentially these are a traditional half-round profile or the modern square section, using round and square downpipes.<br />
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At L & L we first Check if fallen leaves and twigs have blocked the gutters and outlets, which could cause water to overflow, or pond on flat roofs.<br />
When we are replacing an old gutter system, we plan to run a new downpipe to the original drain connections. for new building extensions or conservatories, we try to position new gutter outlets so that the downpipes run to an existing gully or drain. Alternatively, we install a new gully to the main drainage system or a soakaway may be built and the new connections can run to this.<br />
All measurement and material calculation can be done at ground level. To calculate the quantity of gutter required we simply measure around the relevant elevations of the building. Corners, internal or external, are catered for by using the appropriate 90° or 135° gutter angles. All gutter angles must be fixed to the fascia. Corner angles should be fixed using support brackets not more than 150mm from each end of the fittings.<br />
<div class="separator"style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXM4IUTelYDqnZS8cUp8f1ve3bl8YDbOE_K7sf55c1zABWr7S4pT_nrDhZtvKp4vcfOkIWziaQeeH3Ir8Oq4k9AjV7X0gRSPvjScqhDCnI_nevnqKC0k_ZvY-fkdoGuAYKlJRmVa_Czya2/s640/blogger-image-965721463.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXM4IUTelYDqnZS8cUp8f1ve3bl8YDbOE_K7sf55c1zABWr7S4pT_nrDhZtvKp4vcfOkIWziaQeeH3Ir8Oq4k9AjV7X0gRSPvjScqhDCnI_nevnqKC0k_ZvY-fkdoGuAYKlJRmVa_Czya2/s640/blogger-image-965721463.jpg" /></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8863536304168125710.post-11523634821346072122012-07-17T03:28:00.002-07:002012-07-17T03:28:45.465-07:00Lots of handy Landscaping tipsCheck to see what conditions your plant likes, shade or full sun. The labels van give you all the information you need. Preferred soil type, and lots more. If you study your garden you will see the sunny and shady areas and a simple soil testing kit can tell you what soil you have. If you are going to spend your money on plants, you may as well do it right, so they last!<br />
Having problems with young plant climbers? Put a screw into the fence panel and tie some wire to it. I find wire better as it stays upright and does not put weight on to plant. Then wrap wire around the stem of the plant, very loosely, but this will help keep plant next to the fence<br />
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Read all the handy tips at:<br />
<a href="http://www.homeimprovementsdirect.co.uk/2012/07/13/general-landscaping-tips/">http://www.homeimprovementsdirect.co.uk/2012/07/13/general-landscaping-tips/</a><br />
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The Basic Principles Of Landscape Design<br />
Landscape design is the process of developing practical and pleasing outdoor living space.<br />
The House is the Most Important Part of Any Garden. You can’t ignore it! It’s almost always the largest, most dominant structure in the garden. Your journey starts and ends with the house and therefore any garden plan, should always start from the building and work outwards.<br />
Consider practical issues, such as what you and others will do on the yard. Will children be running on the grass, or will people often be walking in specific areas?<br />
Make a list of the features that you want to have in your landscaping. Do you want a patio to lounge outside and have drinks and meals? Do you want a fountain or a bird bath? Are there plants or trees that you definitely want to have?<br />
Unity should be one of your main goals in your design. It may be better understood and applied as consistency and repetition. Repetition creates unity by repeating alike elements like plants, plant groups, or decor throughout the landscape. Consistency creates unity in the sense that some or all of the different elements of the landscape fit together to create a whole. Unity can be achieved by the consistency of character of elements in the design. By character, I mean the height, size, texture, color schemes, etc. of different elements.<br />
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Read entire article at:<br />
<a href="http://www.homeimprovementsdirect.co.uk/2012/07/13/basic-principles-landscaping/">http://www.homeimprovementsdirect.co.uk/2012/07/13/basic-principles-landscaping/</a><br />
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When you’re thinking about where to grow fruit and vegetables in your garden, bear the following considerations in mind for the best results: <br />
Try to find a sunny spot with good drainage. A south-facing aspect is ideal.<br />
Avoid overhanging tree branches and shade cast by buildings or hedges.<br />
Make sure there is plenty of water. Avoid the area next to hedges as this tends to be dry.<br />
Provide shelter from wind. You may need to put up a windbreak.<br />
Make sure there is protection from marauding wildlife. You may need a rabbit proof fence.<br />
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Fruit and vegetable plots require quite a lot of work – planting, weeding, watering, tying, harvesting, manuring and so on. So make your life as easy as possible by designing the plot ergonomically - making it low maintenance.<br />
A good idea is to divide the plot into four areas – this enables you to rotate the crops, minimising disease problems.<br />
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Ensure the paths between the beds are wide enough to take a wheelbarrow, and have a hard surface – paving slabs will stop your feet getting too muddy.<br />
Beds about 1.2m (4ft) wide with paths all around are perfect, because you can water and weed without getting on to the bed.<br />
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There’s room for a few fruit and vegetables in any garden, no matter how small.<br />
You don’t have to have a dedicated fruit and vegetable plot to grow them successfully. You can mix them in with your flowering plants. It’s what cottage gardeners have done for centuries.<br />
You can grow vegetables among ornamentals (or vice versa). There are many varieties which have ornamental qualities, such as red flowered beans, crinkly leaved lettuce, black French beans and yellow tomatoes.Even the frilly foliage of the humble carrot is pretty.<br />
Use vertical spaces in the garden. How about creating a temporary ‘hedge’ of runner beans over a net, or putting a few willow teepees in a bed and growing beans, gourds, cucumbers or melons over them?<br />
Then there are containers. A patio of potatoes, prize petunias and pelargoniums will get them talking! Salad leaves, herbs, courgettes and climbing beans all grow perfectly well in containers. On a warm sunny patio, add tomatoes and sweet peppers to the list.<br />
Growing vegetables and fruit successfully is basically no different to growing ornamental plants successfully. Take care of them and they’ll take care of you. Start with good plants or seed, give them what they want: food, water and light - and they’ll do the work for you.<br />
Improving the soil<br />
Vegetables and fruit are greedy devils, and where do you think they get all the goodness they need? Yes, the soil. It’s important to incorporate lots of bulky organic manure and fertiliser every year. <br />
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check out other hints and tips at<br />
www.homeimprovementsdirect.co.uk<br />
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We cover Middlesex, Surrey, Berkshire and Buckinghamshire<div class="separator"style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzsmxsfrrCBh7F84Z8NWBfYf2Ltrh1i2HMmLC7RsEqb04cgNjgdA8yVhulv0L4T6v-TjxpfnigmNo17nPUP4Vk7Tuto8zho2Sw3XMkt1UlSkGh80Ww0jqT8PjUOUqgkJPsNJEJjibLZn_B/s640/blogger-image-1428562949.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzsmxsfrrCBh7F84Z8NWBfYf2Ltrh1i2HMmLC7RsEqb04cgNjgdA8yVhulv0L4T6v-TjxpfnigmNo17nPUP4Vk7Tuto8zho2Sw3XMkt1UlSkGh80Ww0jqT8PjUOUqgkJPsNJEJjibLZn_B/s640/blogger-image-1428562949.jpg" /></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8863536304168125710.post-48546806329624378922012-07-05T14:31:00.001-07:002012-07-05T14:31:39.502-07:00Considerations when Choosing Paving Slabs<br />
Paving slabs (or flags) are widely used for paths and patios and a any garden centre or builders' merchant will demonstrate the enormous range of sizes, shapes and colours available. Seeing the slabs is essential before buying them as you will not see the true colour and texture with online pictures. Take a small bottle of water with you and slightly wet the slabs. Slabs look different when wet, showing different colours, which may help you decide your winter flower beds.<br />
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Size and Shape<br />
The most commonly used size of patio slab is 450x450 mm (18x18 in), although larger and smaller slabs are available. You could choose to lay your paving using just one size of flag, or perhaps use a range of squares and rectangles to produce a random-looking pattern. There are also geometric shaped slabs: hexagons, trapezoids and radial units to form arcs and circles.<br />
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Texture<br />
Flags are available in a number of different textures. Riven concrete flags are manufactured to look like traditional old stone flags. Whilst some can look incredibly authentic, the cheaper versions tend to look somewhat unrealistic. If you are considering a riven slab, bear in mind that its bumpy, uneven surface may mean that you find it impossible to keep your patio furniture from wobbling! <br />
Other textures may be found, such as coarse finish, exposed aggregate, smooth ground or polished styles. There are also slabs that have a pattern etched into them, or that imitate brick, cobble or sett paving. However, you should remember that any rough or etched flags will attract mosses and lichens, so they will need to be cleaned regularly.<br />
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Colour<br />
Slabs are available in a huge range of natural grey, brown, red and yellow colours, although you will also find a number of more artificial looking colours. A dark slab in a sunny situation will absorb light (and heat), whilst a pale one will reflect the light and can brighten up a shady courtyard or basement.<br />
Laying dark slabs in hot sunshine can crisp the concrete underneath before the slab attaches to the concrete. Coat the underneath of the slab either with PVA or wet them.<br />
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Quantities<br />
If you are laying a pattern with slabs of different sizes or colours, draw a plan on graph paper to calculate the number of each required, allowing up to 5% extra for breakages. Try to work to dimensions that minimise the need to cut slabs.<br />
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check out other hints and tips at<br />
www.homeimprovementsdirect.co.uk<br />
<br />
We cover Middlesex, Surrey, Berkshire and Buckinghamshire<div class="separator"style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnP_L8WJq2Pbzm1z9BkPNf5nFhgpc3HtCkqW86mTHoDwJ9u0IXgBTMSpp1ze3XzIo86gEO1iRkIWz26Gb5gnQmX5tDhK5STLelnF08a6Q6tLEFptr8dScboDqJhrsO24014N5bZDrFT7Fs/s640/blogger-image-1012487021.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnP_L8WJq2Pbzm1z9BkPNf5nFhgpc3HtCkqW86mTHoDwJ9u0IXgBTMSpp1ze3XzIo86gEO1iRkIWz26Gb5gnQmX5tDhK5STLelnF08a6Q6tLEFptr8dScboDqJhrsO24014N5bZDrFT7Fs/s640/blogger-image-1012487021.jpg" /></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8863536304168125710.post-92082262808440908342012-07-05T14:30:00.001-07:002012-07-05T14:30:29.042-07:00Paint stripping for doors.<br />
If the existing paintwork is in a poor condition with several cracks and large flaking areas, the best result will be achieved by stripping the paint off back to the bare material. There are three key methods to achieve this:<br />
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Sandpaper, either by hand or using a power-sander, removes paint by physically breaking the paint bonds. Use coarse grade sandpaper first, working down to fine-grade sandpaper for a smooth finish. Remember to always wear a face mask when sanding.<br />
If sanding by hand use a purpose-built hand sander or wrap a length of sandpaper around a cork sanding block. This will ensure a more even finish and, ultimately, save your fingers from aching.<br />
This is the Cheapest approach however it Creates a lot of dust, Suitable only for mainly flat surfaces, Slow to penetrate through thick layers of paint and<br />
Not suitable for lead paint.<br />
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Heat Guns cause paint to melt so that it softens and can be scraped off the surface using a putty knife.<br />
Tools that have an open flame, such as propane torches, should not be used to strip paint as they can easily cause fires. Even non-flaming heat guns can cause scorching and burning if used for too long on a single spot. They should also not be used immediately next to glass panels as the heat can cause the glass to crack. This method gives Swift removal of several paint layers and Removes paint from contoured surfaces. However heat guns are Not suitable for lead paint, Can cause scorching and burning and Not recommended immediately adjacent to windows.<br />
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Chemical paint strippers may come in liquids, gels or pastes that use strong chemicals to loosen paint from the surface so that it may be scraped off the door with a putty knife. Use a scrape hook or wire wool to remove chemically softened paint from contoured and intricately shaped surfaces. The thickness of the gel or paste makes a difference only to how the stripper will adhere to a vertical surface, not its efficacy at removing paint. The chemicals in these strippers are often hazardous, causing severe irritation if they contact the skin and eyes or if inhaled.<br />
Remember chemicals are dangerous! Never ever leave chemicals around, store them securely.<br />
When working with chemical strippers always read the instructions carefully and follow all safety advice. Ensure that protective clothing and goggles are worn and that the job is undertaken outside or in an area of high ventilation. Do not use flammable chemical strippers next to heat, sparks, flames or any gas or electrical appliance, including fans for ventilation. Do not smoke while using these chemicals.<br />
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check out other hints and tips at<br />
www.homeimprovementsdirect.co.uk<br />
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We cover Middlesex, Surrey, Berkshire and Buckinghamshire<div class="separator"style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_eXnUQpPrtsg9Q1SBbGj5BVAjcWccEkpftORFJutfoKBgLgUOALUXWcrut5_tQ2dYv_ATr1RnbGVpi1UpLE1qmMGXi46KTwpUkDI5yBEHtaU5DlBrdrilk_uTAt2VU2DLs_i5YU7xGBSs/s640/blogger-image--93846440.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_eXnUQpPrtsg9Q1SBbGj5BVAjcWccEkpftORFJutfoKBgLgUOALUXWcrut5_tQ2dYv_ATr1RnbGVpi1UpLE1qmMGXi46KTwpUkDI5yBEHtaU5DlBrdrilk_uTAt2VU2DLs_i5YU7xGBSs/s640/blogger-image--93846440.jpg" /></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8863536304168125710.post-35637621674703692762012-07-05T14:29:00.001-07:002012-07-05T14:29:35.710-07:00Painting bare wood doorsPainting new bare wood doors for a professional finish.<br />
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Wooden doors have a variety of faces and conflicting grain patterns, all of which need to be painted seperately, however the end result must look even in colour and texture, especially when painting a new wooden door, with some careful preparation a new wood door can easily be painted to give that professional look.<br />
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A guide to Painting a door step by step<br />
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Begin by rubbing medium grade sandpaper in the direction of the grain to ‘key’ the bare wood surface.<br />
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Wipe dust away using white spirit and a cloth.<br />
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Any cracks, voids or holes should be filled with cellulose filler, woodfiller or putty. The filler should be left slightly proud of the hole and then sanded back with fine sandpaper to achieve a really smooth finish.<br />
If your door is to be painted in a clear varnish or waxed, it will be important to match the colour of filler or putty to that of the door. If no exact match is available in a pre-mixed form, purchase small quantities of both light and dark colours and mix your own.<br />
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Paint Knotting Fluid over any knots in the wood, this helps to avoid stains on your paintwork caused by resin slowly bleeding out of the wood. You can get knotting fluid from B&Q or Screwfix shellac grades which still contains wax, which ought to be "dewaxed" before fine finishing work. <br />
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Finally remove all dust and debris by wiping the door down, including the edges, with white spirit and a clean cloth.<br />
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A good coat of primer should always be apply to bare wood. Make sure this is worked well into the woodgrain and covers any knots thoroughly. When the primer has dried, rub the door down with fine sandpaper and then a clean cloth to remove any dust.<br />
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Now apply a layer of undercoat, preferably by the same manufacturer and in the same colour as the top coat will be. Again, once dry, sand this layer down with fine sandpaper and wipe away dust. You may need to repeat this step to get a solid undercoat to cover a dark wood door.<br />
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The top coat of gloss or vinyl satin can now be applied, taking care to check over completed areas to remove drips and paint build-ups.<br />
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check out other hints and tips at<br />
www.homeimprovementsdirect.co.uk<br />
<br />
We cover Middlesex, Surrey, Berkshire and Buckinghamshire<div class="separator"style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyem5GA_e3Cx18YEeEpOEJUwJh68nniqsUxVzEu_gg-szJQp54RjKCdeHAgSV5ndDIb4D1zMu7FyhgSzZBVomKr9Z5tCYszO094WJrazfs4El02-lTW1kVDNW2Gq3ngat3oXYsITJp95WV/s640/blogger-image-1642414987.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyem5GA_e3Cx18YEeEpOEJUwJh68nniqsUxVzEu_gg-szJQp54RjKCdeHAgSV5ndDIb4D1zMu7FyhgSzZBVomKr9Z5tCYszO094WJrazfs4El02-lTW1kVDNW2Gq3ngat3oXYsITJp95WV/s640/blogger-image-1642414987.jpg" /></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8863536304168125710.post-24661045766830581922012-07-05T14:28:00.001-07:002012-07-05T14:28:39.441-07:00Repainting wooden doors<br />
To re-paint a wooden door is down to the condition of the existing paintwork. If it's in good order then a simple re-coat will usually suffice, however if the paint is old, flaky and discoloured then it will need to be removed, the door sanded back and then fresh paint applied to produce a decent finish.<br />
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<br />
Repainting a door, a step by step guide.<br />
<br />
Remember that There’s no need to take woodwork back to the bare timber if the existing paintwork is in a sound condition.<br />
If there’s a little flaky paint, remove it with a scraper and then sand the surrounding areas to even out the surface.<br />
If possible, remove door furniture (handles, knobs, plates and knockers).<br />
<br />
If the existing paintwork is in a poor condition with several cracks and large flaking areas, the best result will be achieved by stripping the paint off back to the bare wood. This can be achieved in a number of ways using either tools and 'elbow grease', or chemicals.<br />
Having removed paint as necessary, fill any cracks, voids or nail holes with cellulose filler, woodfiller or putty. The filler should be left slightly proud of the hole and then sanded back with fine paper to achieve a really smooth finish.<br />
If your door is to be painted in a clear varnish or waxed, it will be important to match the colour of filler or putty to that of the door. If no exact match is available in a pre-mixed form, purchase small quantities of both light and dark colours and mix your own.<br />
Sand the whole door with medium grade sandpaper to ‘key’ the surface and provide a texture to which the next coat of paint can adhere. This is particularly important if any existing paint is gloss.<br />
Wipe the door down with white spirit and a cloth, including the edges, and clean dust from keyholes to ensure debris is not collected onto the paintbrush.<br />
If the existing paintwork is in good condition, there is no need to prime or undercoat the door. However, if the existing colour is darker than the new top coat, an undercoat will help to cover this up.<br />
If the door has been stripped back to bare timber, primer and undercoat should definitely be applied.<br />
When any primer has dried, rub the door down with fine sandpaper and then a clean cloth to remove any dust.<br />
If applying a layer of undercoat, it should preferably be by the same manufacturer and in the same colour as the top coat will be. Again, once dry, sand this layer down with fine sandpaper and wipe away dust. You may need to repeat this step to get a solid undercoat to cover existing dark paint.<br />
The top coat of gloss or vinyl satin can now be applied, taking care to check over completed areas to remove drips and paint build-ups.<br />
<br />
check out other hints and tips at<br />
www.homeimprovementsdirect.co.uk<br />
<br />
We cover Middlesex, Surrey, Berkshire and Buckinghamshire<div class="separator"style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggvSvf5khoq04REt-R4WiPmMylr9SN__1E3C7ObmSCf3GbHPEsXFxixaIOrUC0v6VQZS8AISdskuuVT3IiBMpWAZq1gjuHlFusxUqFLwcuw_bdR4QzbEZQt_WayZftQ2-Zd_He_fm7zfcB/s640/blogger-image-711494863.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggvSvf5khoq04REt-R4WiPmMylr9SN__1E3C7ObmSCf3GbHPEsXFxixaIOrUC0v6VQZS8AISdskuuVT3IiBMpWAZq1gjuHlFusxUqFLwcuw_bdR4QzbEZQt_WayZftQ2-Zd_He_fm7zfcB/s640/blogger-image-711494863.jpg" /></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8863536304168125710.post-88831496610662227712012-07-05T14:27:00.001-07:002012-07-05T14:27:31.144-07:00Painting a flush door Painting a flush door you will need;<br />
<br />
Medium and fine grade sandpaper<br />
Paint remover – coarse sandpaper, heat gun or chemical stripper<br />
Screwdriver<br />
Cellulose filler, woodfiller or putty<br />
Knotting fluid<br />
4” paintbrush and 1” paintbrush<br />
4” short pile roller<br />
Drop Cloth<br />
Primer<br />
Topcoat Paint<br />
Water to clean and dilute if using water-based paint, such as emulsion<br />
White Spirit to clean and dilute if using oil-based paint, such as gloss<br />
Clean cloth<br />
<br />
<br />
Paint the edges of the door first using the 1” paintbrush.<br />
Next paint the faces of the door using the 4” paintbrush in sections.<br />
As you complete each section, lay off the paint with a light upward stroke using the tip of the brush.<br />
Don’t overload your brush with too much paint as this will encourage runs.<br />
Check back over the door and remove any developing runs by brushing them out and laying off with an upward stroke.<br />
Alternatively, if this method does not deliver a smooth enough finish, dilute your paint with a little water or white spirit, as appropriate, and use the 4” mini roller to apply the paint all over the door very quickly. To avoid the ‘orange peel’ immediately lay off with a clean 4” paintbrush.<br />
<br />
How much paint will I need?<br />
<br />
It is recommended that gloss or vinyl silk paint is used for the top coat on doors as they are the most hard wearing.<br />
A single coat of primer, covering both sides of a door will require 0.5 litres of paint.<br />
A single coat of undercoat, covering both sides of a door will require 0.5 litres of paint.<br />
A single top coat of gloss, covering both sides of a door will require 0.5 litres of paint.<br />
<br />
check out other hints and tips at<br />
www.homeimprovementsdirect.co.uk<br />
<br />
We cover Middlesex, Surrey, Berkshire and Buckinghamshire<div class="separator"style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJef-X-H-8kY3MNVPdvuHXIyS97bMJHYBCGcrGZ_QSfKE7QO88bfnd1wzvZblGLMFasbqmq7M4ECF72Ue-YLeQmV6SMgUFnEeM-hydM69S3Yqglgb7HERTb_GITJiSS3FehQpAHMC7nDDT/s640/blogger-image--1190254886.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJef-X-H-8kY3MNVPdvuHXIyS97bMJHYBCGcrGZ_QSfKE7QO88bfnd1wzvZblGLMFasbqmq7M4ECF72Ue-YLeQmV6SMgUFnEeM-hydM69S3Yqglgb7HERTb_GITJiSS3FehQpAHMC7nDDT/s640/blogger-image--1190254886.jpg" /></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8863536304168125710.post-8625286073975869622012-07-05T14:26:00.001-07:002012-07-05T14:26:36.011-07:00Painting panelled doorsTo paint a panelled door you will need;<br />
<br />
Medium and fine grade sandpaper<br />
Paint remover – coarse sandpaper, heat gun or chemical stripper<br />
Screwdriver<br />
Cellulose filler, woodfiller or putty<br />
Knotting fluid<br />
2”paintbrush and 1” paintbrush<br />
Drop Cloth<br />
Primer<br />
Topcoat Paint<br />
Water to clean and dilute if using water-based paint, such as emulsion<br />
White Spirit to clean and dilute if using oil-based paint, such as gloss<br />
Clean cloth<br />
<br />
Paint the edges of the door first using the 1” paintbrush.<br />
Then paint the faces of the door using the 2” paintbrush.<br />
Paint the moulding and centre field of each panel in sequence, moving left to right and top to bottom over the door.<br />
Paint the vertical stiles in between each pair of panels.<br />
Then paint the horizontal rails, moving top to bottom.<br />
Finish by painting the vertical stiles on the latch and hinge side.<br />
You should aim to coat the door in the sections it was made, so try to apply paint only up to the junction of each stile and rail.<br />
As you complete each section, lay off the paint with a light stroke along the longest dimension using the tip of the brush.<br />
Don’t overload your brush with too much paint as this will encourage runs. These are especially likely to form in the corners of the panels. To minimise this, ensure you paint out of, not into, the corners to discourage paint from collecting there.<br />
Check back over the door and remove any developing runs by brushing them out and laying off with a stroke that follows the woodgrain.<br />
When finished the door should be evenly covered all over, with the paint running in the direction of the woodgrain on all of the individual components of the door.<br />
<br />
How much paint will I need?<br />
<br />
It is recommended that gloss or vinyl silk paint is used for the top coat on doors as they are the most hard wearing.<br />
<br />
A single coat of primer, covering both sides of a door will require 0.5 litres of paint.<br />
A single coat of undercoat, covering both sides of a door will require 0.5 litres of paint.<br />
A single top coat of gloss, covering both sides of a door will require 0.5 litres of paint.<br />
<br />
check out other hints and tips at<br />
www.homeimprovementsdirect.co.uk<br />
<br />
We cover Middlesex, Surrey, Berkshire and Buckinghamshire<div class="separator"style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwmwNv1-21Emdf2qB9N09RIwB-sxY1G2KzWrEMMpnoBdR4XLpSr_BLFZKLqyq5CAzRZkmTZog54tsRNCBBd3RFwM4_HMGO_SlcLGdX11X8wQtrZypO0RoTZKIBZ9PQdFrbg5WROBf99TJl/s640/blogger-image-1478642029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwmwNv1-21Emdf2qB9N09RIwB-sxY1G2KzWrEMMpnoBdR4XLpSr_BLFZKLqyq5CAzRZkmTZog54tsRNCBBd3RFwM4_HMGO_SlcLGdX11X8wQtrZypO0RoTZKIBZ9PQdFrbg5WROBf99TJl/s640/blogger-image-1478642029.jpg" /></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8863536304168125710.post-77615036511579443332012-07-05T14:24:00.001-07:002012-07-05T14:25:25.930-07:00Painting a ledged & braced door<br />
You will need;<br />
Medium and fine grade sandpaper<br />
Paint remover – coarse sandpaper, heat gun or chemical stripper<br />
Screwdriver<br />
Cellulose filler, woodfiller or putty<br />
Knotting fluid<br />
2”paintbrush and 1” paintbrush<br />
Drop Cloth<br />
Primer<br />
Topcoat Paint<br />
Water to clean and dilute if using water-based paint, such as emulsion<br />
White Spirit to clean and dilute if using oil-based paint, such as gloss<br />
Clean cloth<br />
<br />
Paint the edges of the door first using the 1” paintbrush.<br />
Be sure to cover the top and bottom edges well to protect against wet rot.<br />
Next paint the faces of the door using the 4” paintbrush.<br />
Paint the rear face of the door next using the 2" paintbrush, first covering each vertical panel, and finishing with the ledges and braces.<br />
Don’t overload your brush with too much paint as this will encourage runs. These are especially likely where the boards meet.<br />
Check back over the door and remove any developing runs by brushing them out and laying off with and upward stroke.<br />
Now paint the front broad side of the door, following the grain and covering each vertical board completely, before moving on to the next.<br />
As you complete each section, lay off the paint with a light upward stroke using the tip of the brush.<br />
<br />
How much paint will I need?<br />
<br />
It is recommended that gloss or vinyl silk paint is used for the top coat on doors as they are the most hard wearing.<br />
<br />
A single coat of primer, covering both sides of a door will require 0.5 litres of paint.<br />
A single coat of undercoat, covering both sides of a door will require 0.5 litres of paint.<br />
A single top coat of gloss, covering both sides of a door will require 0.5 litres of paint.<br />
<br />
check out other hints and tips at<br />
www.homeimprovementsdirect.co.uk<br />
<br />
We cover Middlesex, Surrey, Berkshire and Buckinghamshire<div class="separator"style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhILpFdCJO-3Nv5uCqiS-gWApmc5ydesoCpdo9ka8Hp114ZGJyuXPcd-ZyGAC83LiPNjCCIOAGnk7pLPliejzdCcZ8o-x97oB9HGFsT12BNtKhVkSyB_dP_R2OpekqQit5jL3X0GSkk7oNd/s640/blogger-image--494375309.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhILpFdCJO-3Nv5uCqiS-gWApmc5ydesoCpdo9ka8Hp114ZGJyuXPcd-ZyGAC83LiPNjCCIOAGnk7pLPliejzdCcZ8o-x97oB9HGFsT12BNtKhVkSyB_dP_R2OpekqQit5jL3X0GSkk7oNd/s640/blogger-image--494375309.jpg" /></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8863536304168125710.post-6142903652176062722012-06-27T14:50:00.001-07:002012-06-27T14:50:40.270-07:00Raised vegetable beds<br />
Raised vegetable beds have many practical uses as well as looking very nice.<br />
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Consider growing your garden in raised garden boxes. Elevated raised gardens require less bending for planting, weeding, watering, and harvesting. Raised vegetable gardens are an excellent alternative for growing vegetables in difficult sites, such as hillsides. Depending on your individual needs, raised beds can take many forms, making them quite practical as well as beautiful.<br />
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Nearly anything that holds soil and maintains shape is suitable to build a raised garden bed. Wood, concrete, bricks, stones, or containers that are situated in tiers can all be used for a raised bed. Normally, wood is the most commonly used; you should try to stay away from using any timber which has been pressure treated, however, as the chemicals that are used to treat the wood can get into the soil and harm plants.<br />
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Typically, raised garden boxes are laid out in a rectangular pattern approximately 3 feet in width. This layout allows all areas of the bed, including the center, to be easily accessible.The length of a raised vegetable garden mainly depends on your particular landscape needs. The depth of raised garden boxes generally require at least 6-12 inches for the proper root development of plants.<br />
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Creating paths between the beds makes the maintenance easier and looks attractive, too. You can create this effect by adding a layer of plastic or other gardening fabric between each bed and covering it with a suitable mulching material, such as gravels or pebbles. The pathways should be wide enough for easy accessibility to the beds with additional room for a wheelbarrow. Generally, a width of approximately 2 to 3 feet is sufficient.<br />
<br />
check out other hints and tips at<br />
www.homeimprovementsdirect.co.uk<br />
<br />
We cover Middlesex, Surrey, Berkshire and Buckinghamshire<div class="separator"style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4SipzPOP7A_pAeo17LDVyc6FQiipB2B_PIxR46hejllykilN9At5YtdCt0XHBH8TrnlX8ot3jIH3qPi66gYHm2-g7tTbIy0OvRLoYXaYCbMksRYG_2_6f5xy_APEkEi3tjUC8zOCBdNmz/s640/blogger-image--343339431.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4SipzPOP7A_pAeo17LDVyc6FQiipB2B_PIxR46hejllykilN9At5YtdCt0XHBH8TrnlX8ot3jIH3qPi66gYHm2-g7tTbIy0OvRLoYXaYCbMksRYG_2_6f5xy_APEkEi3tjUC8zOCBdNmz/s640/blogger-image--343339431.jpg" /></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8863536304168125710.post-39867078466636620372012-06-13T10:52:00.001-07:002012-06-13T10:52:37.768-07:00Growing your own veg can save you money! Home grown vegetables can save you money as well as being extremely satisfying. <br />
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<br />
If you are growing vegetables in the hope of saving money here are some suggestions for crops which can deliver real cost savings. When buying seeds, be sure to choose varieties which do well in your region. Even within regions there are ‘micro-climates’ which affect growing conditions, so check locally for advice about recommended varieties for your locale. The prices shown are all estimates at the time of composing this article. Prices may of gone down but more than likely gone up! <br />
<br />
1. Broccoli<br />
Broccoli costs about £1.50 a pound, which is pretty cheap. The Central head weighs from 0.3 to 1 pound, so you get a fair amount of broccoli for the price. After cutting off the central head, many side shoots will grow below, and will equal two to three times the original crown. If you grow ten broccoli plants you would produced about 2 pounds each, so you would grow about £30 worth of broccoli for a cost of about £10. The amount of money saved is not enough to get excited about, but the convenience of having fresh-picked broccoli available for 6 – 8 months is a real bonus.<br />
Broccoli is a cool-season crop, and can be grown both as a spring and a fall crop. Broccoli is a heavy feeder and requires soil rich with organic matter. Before planting, compost and peat are worked into the soil, and lime and rock phosphate if needed. Broccoli is highly nutritious and has been deemed an anti-cancerous food. This vegetable is a good source of Vitamin A, calcium, and riboflavin (or vitamin B2).<br />
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2. Tomatoes <br />
If we assume that tomatoes cost £2 to £4 a pound for this comparison.<br />
If you planted four plants of a large variety of tomatoes for example (Big Beef), two cherry tomato plants (Sun Gold), and maybe two standard tomato plants. Each of the larger plants would produced at least 15 large beefsteak tomatoes weighing 1 pound or more. An estimate would be a total of 80 pounds of tomatoes (worth £100 - £130 ) for a cost of about £40. <br />
All plants can be planted in the same 6’ x 12’ plot. The cherry tomatoes provide an early harvest, the large tomatoes are used for summer and fall eating, and the meaty paste tomatoes are good for freezing. Standard tomatoes also make excellent fresh or cooked salsa and sauces. Having a ready supply of tomatoes for cooking during the winter months adds value, since the price of tomatoes goes up in winter.<br />
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3. Bell peppers<br />
Green bell peppers cost about £1.50 at a supermarket, and yellow and red peppers are even more expensive due to their extended ripening times. Pepper starter plants, however, cost about £1 each at a local nursery. If you planted ten pepper plants and each plant produced at least six peppers and let most of the pepper crop mature until they turn red , they taste sweeter than green peppers a rough estimate is that a £10 investment would yield about £100 in peppers. Easy to grow, peppers are commonly started early in small pots and transplanted when it’s warm enough outside. Pick off any small peppers that may form on transplants or the plant growth will be stunted. Pick the green peppers as soon as they reach size; this will stimulate new fruiting and increase the yield per plant. You can leave some plants unpicked if you want the peppers to sweeten and turn yellow or red; however, these plants will produce fewer peppers.<br />
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4. Winter Squash<br />
Winter squash varieties cost between £1.29 and £1.99 a pound. (This is mid-winter pricing, which is more costly.) Squash plants yield about 40 squash, weighing 4 lbs each on average, which adds up to about 160 pounds. This is worth between £200-£300. Squash starter plants are available for about £2 each.<br />
Winter squash are a favorite among gardeners because they’re easy to grow, don’t require weeding once established, and most importantly, they keep through the winter to provide a valued vegetable for eating all winter and spring. The squash bed does need to be richly prepared before planting. If you have space to spare, then growing winter squash makes sense.<br />
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5. Lettuce<br />
You may have noticed the price of lettuce has risen considerably in the past two years. A red leaf lettuce could cost £1.79 for a small bunch. (And the Spring Mix, a ready to serve assorted lettuce mix can cost £4 per 300 grams!) If you grow your own lettuce, from a £2 package of seeds you’ll recoup the cost within a few weeks and enjoy your own fresh lettuce for months. Be sure to plant only a small amount of seed, or the unharvested mature lettuce will bolt. Save the remaining seed for replanting every two to three weeks throughout the growing season. This will ensure a steady supply of fresh greens for the table.<br />
Iceberg takes longer to mature and when ready it gives too much lettuce at one time also the head of the lettuce harbors more slugs. The leafy varieties are easy to harvest by picking the outer leaves, and this lets the plant continue to grow and produce.<br />
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6. Garlic<br />
The price of a garlic bulb ranges from £1 to £5 a pound, homegrown garlic, grown from cloves saved from a previous crop, cost less than £0.50 a pound to grow.<br />
Garlic is one of the easier crops to grow, but over-watering when the plants were mature can lose your crop. Garlic is often grown over winter which makes good use of garden space. Weeding is important as garlic does not like competition. Harvesting on time and curing properly are important for producing bulbs with good keeping qualities.<br />
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The figures used in this article are approximate. We did not weigh every tomato or leaf of lettuce. And the list is by no means exclusive. There are other crops which are cost-effective to grow, and some of the crops listed on this page may be difficult to grow in some regions. <br />
As any gardener knows, growing vegetables is more than about saving money. Growing your own vegetables is healthier for the family because the produce is fresh and (hopefully) grown without chemicals. It is better for the environment by reducing the cost of food transport, there are educational benefits for the children, and oh yes, the vegetables will taste so much better!<br />
<br />
check out other hints and tips at<br />
http://www.homeimprovementsdirect.co.uk/areas/berkshire-services/<br />
<br />
We cover Middlesex, Surrey, Berkshire and Buckinghamshire<div class="separator"style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVYlROwAnuotIauNsai2Q5WDdlBHIIn2LYCtpVUbXkjlFIJ77obO6_NAGkN7g28jpOgHK80iEfMRmW5zvy6h4cZlCWcxRec2v3mI-MBhsJso2_vBTMCrj-gAp1NM2EwWbee97VspjNsGY6/s640/blogger-image--40239521.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVYlROwAnuotIauNsai2Q5WDdlBHIIn2LYCtpVUbXkjlFIJ77obO6_NAGkN7g28jpOgHK80iEfMRmW5zvy6h4cZlCWcxRec2v3mI-MBhsJso2_vBTMCrj-gAp1NM2EwWbee97VspjNsGY6/s640/blogger-image--40239521.jpg" /></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8863536304168125710.post-69267311796552539912012-06-13T08:19:00.001-07:002012-06-13T08:40:18.076-07:00Painting bare wood doors<br />
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<br />
How to get a professional finish when painting new bare wood doors.<br />
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Wooden doors have a variety of colours, textures and conflicting grain patterns, all of which need to be painted seperately, however the end result must look even, especially when painting a new wooden door.<br />
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This is a easy to do guide to Painting a bare wood door step by step:<br />
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Following the grain of the wood, rub down using a medium grade sandpaper.<br />
<br />
Using white spirit on a cloth, wipe away the dust.<br />
<br />
Any cracks, voids or holes should be filled with cellulose filler, woodfiller or putty. The filler should be left slightly proud of the hole and then sanded back with fine sandpaper.<br />
Doors being painted in a clear varnish or waxed will need to match the colour of the door with a filler or putty of the same colour. If no exact match is available in a pre-mixed form, purchase small quantities of both light and dark colours and mix your own.<br />
<br />
B & Q , Wickes and many other DIY retailers stock a product called Paint Knotting Fluid or of a similar name. Use this over any knots in the wood, this helps to avoid stains on your paintwork caused by resin slowly bleeding out of the wood. <br />
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Finally remove all dust and debris by wiping the door down, including the edges, with white spirit and a clean cloth.<br />
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A good coat of primer should always be apply to bare wood. Make sure this is worked well into the woodgrain and covers any knots thoroughly. To gain a professional finish once the primer has dried, rub the door down with a fine sandpaper and then a clean cloth to remove any dust.<br />
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Using undercoat and preferably by the same manufacturer as the top coat, apply a layer. For dark wooden doors you may need to use a fine sandpaper and give a gentle rub of the dried undercoat and reapply another coat.<br />
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The top coat of gloss or vinyl satin can now be applied, taking care to check over completed areas to remove drips and paint build-ups.<br />
<br />
There are technics for painting doors to help reduce runs and these will be posted very soon.<br />
<br />
The picture attached shows a good order in which to paint your door.<br />
<br />
We cover painting and decorating in Middlesex, Surrey, Buckinghamshire and Berkshire (please see the links below)<br />
<br />
Decorator Surrey Decorator Middlesex Decorator Berkshire Decorator Buckinghamshire<br />
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<div class="separator"style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-9FlveE0uRGxm2HfFvChhsCcO3mEXWZAlyMaTacdW4D0PvAY5Q7rWbnqxH2r22uPsWvgSAgXPQ4KBAtfBwruBSaDnBdoZcbpLCMcJhXJIi-qyKmX5KoDCr_4h5Z7XQMe96204AkeB7PP_/s640/blogger-image--400277153.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-9FlveE0uRGxm2HfFvChhsCcO3mEXWZAlyMaTacdW4D0PvAY5Q7rWbnqxH2r22uPsWvgSAgXPQ4KBAtfBwruBSaDnBdoZcbpLCMcJhXJIi-qyKmX5KoDCr_4h5Z7XQMe96204AkeB7PP_/s640/blogger-image--400277153.jpg" /></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8863536304168125710.post-46745092355075986532012-06-05T14:22:00.001-07:002012-06-05T14:22:46.631-07:00Laying turf, a users guide.Laying turf<br />
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Getting started.<br />
Turf can be laid all year round, however frosty conditions should be avoided and laying turf in extended periods of hot and dry weather will require additional care and attention.<br />
Only a few tools are needed to lay turf; a wheelbarrow, a rake, a long knife, a spade, some planks, a garden hose and a sprinkler.<br />
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Your new turf will grow best when your soil is prepared in such a way as to encourage deep, rapid rooting. Turf needs just four things (in the proper proportions) to grow; sunlight, air, water and nutrients. Grass plants obtain three of these essential factors from the soil; air, water and nutrients. You must prepare your soil, the quality of the soil and its preparation will greatly affect the quality of the lawn. The correct depth of soil with the correct structure will ensure that the grass roots penetrate evenly and deeply. This will make the lawn more drought resistant, a more efficient water and nutrient user and will lead to a denser sward of grass plants which helps to crowd out weeds and gives a more visually appealing lawn. Poor soil and poor preparation will cause turf to deteriorate over time.<br />
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Calculating how much turf and topsoil you require<br />
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To calculate how much turf is required, measure the length and width of the area to be turfed, multiply one by the other to give you the amount of rolls required. Measuring in metres is easiest as each standard roll of turf covers 1m². Then add 5% for shaping etc<br />
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To calculate how much topsoil is required, measure the length, width and depth of the area to be covered, multiply these together to give you the volume required.<br />
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Remove the existing lawn using a turf cutter, which are available from all reputable hire shops or a spade and some hard work.<br />
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Preparation.<br />
You need a minimum of 100mm (4"), ideally 150mm (6") of good soil (the deeper the better). The soil should be loosely turned over and free from surface stone, clods, other debris and perennial weeds.<br />
Digging over or rotovating the soil before laying turf is essential. Once the soil has been loosened it should then be lightly compacted. The best way to do this is to walk over the whole area and then again at right angles to the first direction. Then rake the surface to a fine tilth and make sure that the surface is level. This may take some time, but it is worth it, as if the surface is uneven it will result in your lawn being uneven, which will have an adverse impact on the appearance of the lawn.<br />
Ideally you should water the soil a couple of days before your turf arrives. Not only will this provide water for the roots of the turf, it can also cause the prepared soil to settle which can then be raked level again just before the turf arrives. <br />
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Laying the turf<br />
Turf should be laid out immediately, as when it is rolled up it is effectively slowly dying as the leaves are not receiving any sunlight.<br />
Start laying the turves, preferably along a straight edge, butting closely end to end. On subsequent rows stagger the joints brickwork fashion. Planks should be placed on newly laid turves for walking along and working from.<br />
Lightly firm down the turves with the head of a rake or piece of wood to ensure good contact between the turves and the soil. Never use a roller on freshly laid turf.<br />
Always push turf into a joint; never stretch the turves by pulling them. Any remaining cracks can be filled with a light soil and tamped down.<br />
The turf can be simply cut using a long knife or hand saw cutting spade around edges and features.<br />
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Watering your new lawn is the single most important step you need to take to establish a beautiful and healthy lawn.<br />
Always water newly laid turf immediately and for several days after laying until the turf is firmly rooted. On hot days, you may need to commence watering large lawns prior to laying all the turf.<br />
Ensure that the new lawn is never short of water and that the water has percolated through to the underlying soil. Lift the corners of the turf to check the soil below.<br />
Water repeatedly until the turf is well established.<br />
If rainfall is experienced you still need to check that the lawn is receiving sufficient water.<br />
First thing in the morning or in the evening are ideal times to water your new turf so that less water is lost evaporation.<br />
Once established, occasional watering during dry periods should be adequate.<br />
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Be prepared to mow your new lawn within as little as 3 days, if this can be done without disturbing the turf. If turf is dislodged, replace it and allow the turf more time to establish before recommencing mowing.<br />
Don’t delay. Mowing encourages establishment, however most people wait too long before mowing. Turf will accept light traffic almost immediately, although it is recommended that you keep off it other than for mowing for the first few weeks.<br />
Never remove more than one third of the grass blade length.<br />
For the first few cuts remove just the top quarter of the grass blade. Over the next few cuts gradually lower the mowing height down to 25mm (1").<br />
Alternate the direction in which you mow your lawn.<br />
Clippings do not have to be collected if they are minimal, provided sunlight is reaching the blades of grass. Clippings in small amounts return nutrients to the soil encouraging a healthy lawn.<br />
<div class="separator"style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgffKUYFneYD7LogNBTxoHlzVTEdbzE7uFqEFUlBy3sY725IpIuTDArlhrgrxcqMwYmOyrZf1tK1xzk4sADWev7BesF_LxQsRZ1U62FfKdX1SaXZHzFrbOF1Zmt8Evcn8VdGjp9bOPAv0Bj/s640/blogger-image--97887770.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgffKUYFneYD7LogNBTxoHlzVTEdbzE7uFqEFUlBy3sY725IpIuTDArlhrgrxcqMwYmOyrZf1tK1xzk4sADWev7BesF_LxQsRZ1U62FfKdX1SaXZHzFrbOF1Zmt8Evcn8VdGjp9bOPAv0Bj/s640/blogger-image--97887770.jpg" /></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8863536304168125710.post-22043382741578823672012-06-05T14:10:00.001-07:002012-06-24T12:42:27.665-07:00Sowing a new lawn.Sowing a new lawn<br />
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Prepare the site<br />
Dig the area and remove large stones and roots of perennial weeds. Add Enriched Lawn Soil to improve the water-holding capacity and structure of the soil. Level and firm the surface by raking and treading over the surface.<br />
Fallow the site<br />
Allow the dormant weed seeds to germinate and after a couple of weeks kill off this top growth with Weedol 2. Apply a general fertiliser to the surface and rake in while you level again. A balanced plant food ensures quick establishment of new grass.<br />
Sow the seed<br />
Wait until the soil is evenly moist. The sowing rate is 35g/sq.m (35g = a large handful). Sow half the seed from left to right and the rest from top to bottom to achieve even coverage. Rake the seed into the surface and ensure the soil remains moist until germination occurs.<br />
Keep the soil moist<br />
In autumn and early spring rains should keep the soil evenly moist. In dry weather water the seed occasionally in the evenings.<br />
After care<br />
Germination will be seen in 2-3 weeks depending on temperature. Lightly trim the grass to a minimum of 4cm when it is 5-8cm (2-3”) long overall. Then mow every couple of weeks gradually reducing the cutting height to 2.5cm (1”). Wait at least six months before applying a lawn food.<br />
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Untidy edges.<br />
Untidy lawn edges, where the grass is growing into the surrounding borders, are easy to correct. Simply use a pair of lawn-edging shears to cut away any long grass that is beginning to encroach into the borders. Ideally, you should do this after every mowing.<br />
If this seems hard work, which it isn’t, or you have a lot of edging to do, many line trimmers have a head that can rotate through 90° and so be used as an edger. Most will have a roller guide to ensure you cut in the right place and so tidy up your lawn edges beautifully.<br />
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Uneven lawn edges.<br />
If the lawn edges are generally ragged and uneven, you can use a sharp spade or, better still, a half-moon edging iron to re-cut them. To ensure good, straight lines, use a short plank of wood or similar as a cutting guide. If you prefer perfect wavy edges, then use a garden hose, which can be used to map out your curves and again act as a cutting guide.<br />
You may want to re-cut the edges once a year for the perfect looking lawn. This is especially true if your lawn sits on light, sandy soils as these crumble away easily.<br />
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Broken edges.<br />
Broken edges not only make the lawn and garden look untidy, but they also make mowing and edging more difficult. To improve the look of your lawn and to make mowing easier, you should make some quick and easy repairs.<br />
Use a sharp spade or half-moon edging iron to cut out a square section of turf that contains the broken edge. Undercut the turf to remove it and turn it around through 180 degrees, so that the broken edge is now within the lawn and one of the straight edges aligns with the lawn edge. Fill in the broken area with sieved garden soil or potting compost, level and re-seed. <br />
Make sure you keep the grass seed well watered during dry periods and within no time at all you’ll have a perfect looking lawn with the crispest edges around.<br />
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Lawn edging.<br />
Where grass continually grows into the border or where the lawn edges constantly look untidy and so make mowing difficult, you may want to consider installing a permanent physical lawn edge.<br />
These are available from good garden centres and DIY stores and can be made from corrugated iron or, better still, plastic. These are driven into the soil along the side of the lawn and make a permanent edge that you can easily mow over.<br />
Or, of course, you could install a brick edging, but this is more expensive and needs more time, effort and some bricklaying skills.<div class="separator"style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZpakN9LZ8-9QOuVIujTsUrDIzYCidYic60KJjfdSeRRinwZ1g1rDJOy0jKkabVN9u2KlVr5L6qAlW8DqgaN6TAZBb8RWXBEAs6D50uhCFnpU1N1byJIf5emvRZGKoitoVN9iXAWp49X8X/s640/blogger-image--459669518.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZpakN9LZ8-9QOuVIujTsUrDIzYCidYic60KJjfdSeRRinwZ1g1rDJOy0jKkabVN9u2KlVr5L6qAlW8DqgaN6TAZBb8RWXBEAs6D50uhCFnpU1N1byJIf5emvRZGKoitoVN9iXAWp49X8X/s640/blogger-image--459669518.jpg" /></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0