Purpose of rain guttering

The main purpose of a rain gutter is to protect a building's foundation by channeling water away from its base. They also help to reduce erosion, prevent leaks in basements and crawlspaces, protect painted surfaces by reducing exposure to water, and provide a means to collect rainwater for later use. Ineffective covering can lead to expensive work to the underlying timbers and any decorative finishes, which will deteriorate rapidly in damp conditions.

There are gutters and downpipes suitable for many domestic and commercial installations. Essentially these are a traditional half-round profile or the modern square section, using round and square downpipes.

At L & L we first Check if fallen leaves and twigs have blocked the gutters and outlets, which could cause water to overflow, or pond on flat roofs.
When we are replacing an old gutter system, we plan to run a new downpipe to the original drain connections. for new building extensions or conservatories, we try to position new gutter outlets so that the downpipes run to an existing gully or drain. Alternatively, we install a new gully to the main drainage system or a soakaway may be built and the new connections can run to this.
All measurement and material calculation can be done at ground level. To calculate the quantity of gutter required we simply measure around the relevant elevations of the building. Corners, internal or external, are catered for by using the appropriate 90° or 135° gutter angles. All gutter angles must be fixed to the fascia. Corner angles should be fixed using support brackets not more than 150mm from each end of the fittings.

Lots of handy Landscaping tips

Check to see what conditions your plant likes, shade or full sun. The labels van give you all the information you need. Preferred soil type, and lots more. If you study your garden you will see the sunny and shady areas and a simple soil testing kit can tell you what soil you have. If you are going to spend your money on plants, you may as well do it right, so they last!
Having problems with young plant climbers? Put a screw into the fence panel and tie some wire to it. I find wire better as it stays upright and does not put weight on to plant. Then wrap wire around the stem of the plant, very loosely, but this will help keep plant next to the fence

Read all the handy tips at:
http://www.homeimprovementsdirect.co.uk/2012/07/13/general-landscaping-tips/

The Basic Principles Of Landscape Design

The Basic Principles Of Landscape Design
Landscape design is the process of developing practical and pleasing outdoor living space.
The House is the Most Important Part of Any Garden. You can’t ignore it! It’s almost always the largest, most dominant structure in the garden. Your journey starts and ends with the house and therefore any garden plan, should always start from the building and work outwards.
Consider practical issues, such as what you and others will do on the yard. Will children be running on the grass, or will people often be walking in specific areas?
Make a list of the features that you want to have in your landscaping. Do you want a patio to lounge outside and have drinks and meals? Do you want a fountain or a bird bath? Are there plants or trees that you definitely want to have?
Unity should be one of your main goals in your design. It may be better understood and applied as consistency and repetition. Repetition creates unity by repeating alike elements like plants, plant groups, or decor throughout the landscape. Consistency creates unity in the sense that some or all of the different elements of the landscape fit together to create a whole. Unity can be achieved by the consistency of character of elements in the design. By character, I mean the height, size, texture, color schemes, etc. of different elements.

Read entire article at:
http://www.homeimprovementsdirect.co.uk/2012/07/13/basic-principles-landscaping/

Growing fruit and veg at home

When you’re thinking about where to grow fruit and vegetables in your garden, bear the following considerations in mind for the best results:
Try to find a sunny spot with good drainage. A south-facing aspect is ideal.
Avoid overhanging tree branches and shade cast by buildings or hedges.
Make sure there is plenty of water. Avoid the area next to hedges as this tends to be dry.
Provide shelter from wind. You may need to put up a windbreak.
Make sure there is protection from marauding wildlife. You may need a rabbit proof fence.

Fruit and vegetable plots require quite a lot of work – planting, weeding, watering, tying, harvesting, manuring and so on. So make your life as easy as possible by designing the plot ergonomically - making it low maintenance.
A good idea is to divide the plot into four areas – this enables you to rotate the crops, minimising disease problems.

Ensure the paths between the beds are wide enough to take a wheelbarrow, and have a hard surface – paving slabs will stop your feet getting too muddy.
Beds about 1.2m (4ft) wide with paths all around are perfect, because you can water and weed without getting on to the bed.

There’s room for a few fruit and vegetables in any garden, no matter how small.
You don’t have to have a dedicated fruit and vegetable plot to grow them successfully. You can mix them in with your flowering plants. It’s what cottage gardeners have done for centuries.
You can grow vegetables among ornamentals (or vice versa). There are many varieties which have ornamental qualities, such as red flowered beans, crinkly leaved lettuce, black French beans and yellow tomatoes.Even the frilly foliage of the humble carrot is pretty.
Use vertical spaces in the garden. How about creating a temporary ‘hedge’ of runner beans over a net, or putting a few willow teepees in a bed and growing beans, gourds, cucumbers or melons over them?
Then there are containers. A patio of potatoes, prize petunias and pelargoniums will get them talking! Salad leaves, herbs, courgettes and climbing beans all grow perfectly well in containers. On a warm sunny patio, add tomatoes and sweet peppers to the list.
Growing vegetables and fruit successfully is basically no different to growing ornamental plants successfully. Take care of them and they’ll take care of you. Start with good plants or seed, give them what they want: food, water and light - and they’ll do the work for you.
Improving the soil
Vegetables and fruit are greedy devils, and where do you think they get all the goodness they need? Yes, the soil. It’s important to incorporate lots of bulky organic manure and fertiliser every year.

check out other hints and tips at
www.homeimprovementsdirect.co.uk

We cover Middlesex, Surrey, Berkshire and Buckinghamshire

Considerations when Choosing Paving Slabs

Paving slabs (or flags) are widely used for paths and patios and a any garden centre or builders' merchant will demonstrate the enormous range of sizes, shapes and colours available. Seeing the slabs is essential before buying them as you will not see the true colour and texture with online pictures. Take a small bottle of water with you and slightly wet the slabs. Slabs look different when wet, showing different colours, which may help you decide your winter flower beds.

Size and Shape
The most commonly used size of patio slab is 450x450 mm (18x18 in), although larger and smaller slabs are available. You could choose to lay your paving using just one size of flag, or perhaps use a range of squares and rectangles to produce a random-looking pattern. There are also geometric shaped slabs: hexagons, trapezoids and radial units to form arcs and circles.

Texture
Flags are available in a number of different textures. Riven concrete flags are manufactured to look like traditional old stone flags. Whilst some can look incredibly authentic, the cheaper versions tend to look somewhat unrealistic. If you are considering a riven slab, bear in mind that its bumpy, uneven surface may mean that you find it impossible to keep your patio furniture from wobbling!
Other textures may be found, such as coarse finish, exposed aggregate, smooth ground or polished styles. There are also slabs that have a pattern etched into them, or that imitate brick, cobble or sett paving. However, you should remember that any rough or etched flags will attract mosses and lichens, so they will need to be cleaned regularly.

Colour
Slabs are available in a huge range of natural grey, brown, red and yellow colours, although you will also find a number of more artificial looking colours. A dark slab in a sunny situation will absorb light (and heat), whilst a pale one will reflect the light and can brighten up a shady courtyard or basement.
Laying dark slabs in hot sunshine can crisp the concrete underneath before the slab attaches to the concrete. Coat the underneath of the slab either with PVA or wet them.

Quantities
If you are laying a pattern with slabs of different sizes or colours, draw a plan on graph paper to calculate the number of each required, allowing up to 5% extra for breakages. Try to work to dimensions that minimise the need to cut slabs.

check out other hints and tips at
www.homeimprovementsdirect.co.uk

We cover Middlesex, Surrey, Berkshire and Buckinghamshire

Paint stripping for doors.

If the existing paintwork is in a poor condition with several cracks and large flaking areas, the best result will be achieved by stripping the paint off back to the bare material. There are three key methods to achieve this:

Sandpaper, either by hand or using a power-sander, removes paint by physically breaking the paint bonds. Use coarse grade sandpaper first, working down to fine-grade sandpaper for a smooth finish. Remember to always wear a face mask when sanding.
If sanding by hand use a purpose-built hand sander or wrap a length of sandpaper around a cork sanding block. This will ensure a more even finish and, ultimately, save your fingers from aching.
This is the Cheapest approach however it Creates a lot of dust, Suitable only for mainly flat surfaces, Slow to penetrate through thick layers of paint and
Not suitable for lead paint.

Heat Guns cause paint to melt so that it softens and can be scraped off the surface using a putty knife.
Tools that have an open flame, such as propane torches, should not be used to strip paint as they can easily cause fires. Even non-flaming heat guns can cause scorching and burning if used for too long on a single spot. They should also not be used immediately next to glass panels as the heat can cause the glass to crack. This method gives Swift removal of several paint layers and Removes paint from contoured surfaces. However heat guns are Not suitable for lead paint, Can cause scorching and burning and Not recommended immediately adjacent to windows.

Chemical paint strippers may come in liquids, gels or pastes that use strong chemicals to loosen paint from the surface so that it may be scraped off the door with a putty knife. Use a scrape hook or wire wool to remove chemically softened paint from contoured and intricately shaped surfaces. The thickness of the gel or paste makes a difference only to how the stripper will adhere to a vertical surface, not its efficacy at removing paint. The chemicals in these strippers are often hazardous, causing severe irritation if they contact the skin and eyes or if inhaled.
Remember chemicals are dangerous! Never ever leave chemicals around, store them securely.
When working with chemical strippers always read the instructions carefully and follow all safety advice. Ensure that protective clothing and goggles are worn and that the job is undertaken outside or in an area of high ventilation. Do not use flammable chemical strippers next to heat, sparks, flames or any gas or electrical appliance, including fans for ventilation. Do not smoke while using these chemicals.

check out other hints and tips at
www.homeimprovementsdirect.co.uk

We cover Middlesex, Surrey, Berkshire and Buckinghamshire

Painting bare wood doors

Painting new bare wood doors for a professional finish.

Wooden doors have a variety of faces and conflicting grain patterns, all of which need to be painted seperately, however the end result must look even in colour and texture, especially when painting a new wooden door, with some careful preparation a new wood door can easily be painted to give that professional look.

A guide to Painting a door step by step

Begin by rubbing medium grade sandpaper in the direction of the grain to ‘key’ the bare wood surface.

Wipe dust away using white spirit and a cloth.

Any cracks, voids or holes should be filled with cellulose filler, woodfiller or putty. The filler should be left slightly proud of the hole and then sanded back with fine sandpaper to achieve a really smooth finish.
If your door is to be painted in a clear varnish or waxed, it will be important to match the colour of filler or putty to that of the door. If no exact match is available in a pre-mixed form, purchase small quantities of both light and dark colours and mix your own.

Paint Knotting Fluid over any knots in the wood, this helps to avoid stains on your paintwork caused by resin slowly bleeding out of the wood. You can get knotting fluid from B&Q or Screwfix shellac grades which still contains wax, which ought to be "dewaxed" before fine finishing work.

Finally remove all dust and debris by wiping the door down, including the edges, with white spirit and a clean cloth.

A good coat of primer should always be apply to bare wood. Make sure this is worked well into the woodgrain and covers any knots thoroughly. When the primer has dried, rub the door down with fine sandpaper and then a clean cloth to remove any dust.

Now apply a layer of undercoat, preferably by the same manufacturer and in the same colour as the top coat will be. Again, once dry, sand this layer down with fine sandpaper and wipe away dust. You may need to repeat this step to get a solid undercoat to cover a dark wood door.

The top coat of gloss or vinyl satin can now be applied, taking care to check over completed areas to remove drips and paint build-ups.

check out other hints and tips at
www.homeimprovementsdirect.co.uk

We cover Middlesex, Surrey, Berkshire and Buckinghamshire

Repainting wooden doors

To re-paint a wooden door is down to the condition of the existing paintwork. If it's in good order then a simple re-coat will usually suffice, however if the paint is old, flaky and discoloured then it will need to be removed, the door sanded back and then fresh paint applied to produce a decent finish.


Repainting a door, a step by step guide.

Remember that There’s no need to take woodwork back to the bare timber if the existing paintwork is in a sound condition.
If there’s a little flaky paint, remove it with a scraper and then sand the surrounding areas to even out the surface.
If possible, remove door furniture (handles, knobs, plates and knockers).

If the existing paintwork is in a poor condition with several cracks and large flaking areas, the best result will be achieved by stripping the paint off back to the bare wood. This can be achieved in a number of ways using either tools and 'elbow grease', or chemicals.
Having removed paint as necessary, fill any cracks, voids or nail holes with cellulose filler, woodfiller or putty. The filler should be left slightly proud of the hole and then sanded back with fine paper to achieve a really smooth finish.
If your door is to be painted in a clear varnish or waxed, it will be important to match the colour of filler or putty to that of the door. If no exact match is available in a pre-mixed form, purchase small quantities of both light and dark colours and mix your own.
Sand the whole door with medium grade sandpaper to ‘key’ the surface and provide a texture to which the next coat of paint can adhere. This is particularly important if any existing paint is gloss.
Wipe the door down with white spirit and a cloth, including the edges, and clean dust from keyholes to ensure debris is not collected onto the paintbrush.
If the existing paintwork is in good condition, there is no need to prime or undercoat the door. However, if the existing colour is darker than the new top coat, an undercoat will help to cover this up.
If the door has been stripped back to bare timber, primer and undercoat should definitely be applied.
When any primer has dried, rub the door down with fine sandpaper and then a clean cloth to remove any dust.
If applying a layer of undercoat, it should preferably be by the same manufacturer and in the same colour as the top coat will be. Again, once dry, sand this layer down with fine sandpaper and wipe away dust. You may need to repeat this step to get a solid undercoat to cover existing dark paint.
The top coat of gloss or vinyl satin can now be applied, taking care to check over completed areas to remove drips and paint build-ups.

check out other hints and tips at
www.homeimprovementsdirect.co.uk

We cover Middlesex, Surrey, Berkshire and Buckinghamshire

Painting a flush door

Painting a flush door you will need;

Medium and fine grade sandpaper
Paint remover – coarse sandpaper, heat gun or chemical stripper
Screwdriver
Cellulose filler, woodfiller or putty
Knotting fluid
4” paintbrush and 1” paintbrush
4” short pile roller
Drop Cloth
Primer
Topcoat Paint
Water to clean and dilute if using water-based paint, such as emulsion
White Spirit to clean and dilute if using oil-based paint, such as gloss
Clean cloth


Paint the edges of the door first using the 1” paintbrush.
Next paint the faces of the door using the 4” paintbrush in sections.
As you complete each section, lay off the paint with a light upward stroke using the tip of the brush.
Don’t overload your brush with too much paint as this will encourage runs.
Check back over the door and remove any developing runs by brushing them out and laying off with an upward stroke.
Alternatively, if this method does not deliver a smooth enough finish, dilute your paint with a little water or white spirit, as appropriate, and use the 4” mini roller to apply the paint all over the door very quickly. To avoid the ‘orange peel’ immediately lay off with a clean 4” paintbrush.

How much paint will I need?

It is recommended that gloss or vinyl silk paint is used for the top coat on doors as they are the most hard wearing.
A single coat of primer, covering both sides of a door will require 0.5 litres of paint.
A single coat of undercoat, covering both sides of a door will require 0.5 litres of paint.
A single top coat of gloss, covering both sides of a door will require 0.5 litres of paint.

check out other hints and tips at
www.homeimprovementsdirect.co.uk

We cover Middlesex, Surrey, Berkshire and Buckinghamshire

Painting panelled doors

To paint a panelled door you will need;

Medium and fine grade sandpaper
Paint remover – coarse sandpaper, heat gun or chemical stripper
Screwdriver
Cellulose filler, woodfiller or putty
Knotting fluid
2”paintbrush and 1” paintbrush
Drop Cloth
Primer
Topcoat Paint
Water to clean and dilute if using water-based paint, such as emulsion
White Spirit to clean and dilute if using oil-based paint, such as gloss
Clean cloth

Paint the edges of the door first using the 1” paintbrush.
Then paint the faces of the door using the 2” paintbrush.
Paint the moulding and centre field of each panel in sequence, moving left to right and top to bottom over the door.
Paint the vertical stiles in between each pair of panels.
Then paint the horizontal rails, moving top to bottom.
Finish by painting the vertical stiles on the latch and hinge side.
You should aim to coat the door in the sections it was made, so try to apply paint only up to the junction of each stile and rail.
As you complete each section, lay off the paint with a light stroke along the longest dimension using the tip of the brush.
Don’t overload your brush with too much paint as this will encourage runs. These are especially likely to form in the corners of the panels. To minimise this, ensure you paint out of, not into, the corners to discourage paint from collecting there.
Check back over the door and remove any developing runs by brushing them out and laying off with a stroke that follows the woodgrain.
When finished the door should be evenly covered all over, with the paint running in the direction of the woodgrain on all of the individual components of the door.

How much paint will I need?

It is recommended that gloss or vinyl silk paint is used for the top coat on doors as they are the most hard wearing.

A single coat of primer, covering both sides of a door will require 0.5 litres of paint.
A single coat of undercoat, covering both sides of a door will require 0.5 litres of paint.
A single top coat of gloss, covering both sides of a door will require 0.5 litres of paint.

check out other hints and tips at
www.homeimprovementsdirect.co.uk

We cover Middlesex, Surrey, Berkshire and Buckinghamshire

Painting a ledged & braced door

You will need;
Medium and fine grade sandpaper
Paint remover – coarse sandpaper, heat gun or chemical stripper
Screwdriver
Cellulose filler, woodfiller or putty
Knotting fluid
2”paintbrush and 1” paintbrush
Drop Cloth
Primer
Topcoat Paint
Water to clean and dilute if using water-based paint, such as emulsion
White Spirit to clean and dilute if using oil-based paint, such as gloss
Clean cloth

Paint the edges of the door first using the 1” paintbrush.
Be sure to cover the top and bottom edges well to protect against wet rot.
Next paint the faces of the door using the 4” paintbrush.
Paint the rear face of the door next using the 2" paintbrush, first covering each vertical panel, and finishing with the ledges and braces.
Don’t overload your brush with too much paint as this will encourage runs. These are especially likely where the boards meet.
Check back over the door and remove any developing runs by brushing them out and laying off with and upward stroke.
Now paint the front broad side of the door, following the grain and covering each vertical board completely, before moving on to the next.
As you complete each section, lay off the paint with a light upward stroke using the tip of the brush.

How much paint will I need?

It is recommended that gloss or vinyl silk paint is used for the top coat on doors as they are the most hard wearing.

A single coat of primer, covering both sides of a door will require 0.5 litres of paint.
A single coat of undercoat, covering both sides of a door will require 0.5 litres of paint.
A single top coat of gloss, covering both sides of a door will require 0.5 litres of paint.

check out other hints and tips at
www.homeimprovementsdirect.co.uk

We cover Middlesex, Surrey, Berkshire and Buckinghamshire