Raised vegetable beds

Raised vegetable beds have many practical uses as well as looking very nice.

Consider growing your garden in raised garden boxes. Elevated raised gardens require less bending for planting, weeding, watering, and harvesting. Raised vegetable gardens are an excellent alternative for growing vegetables in difficult sites, such as hillsides. Depending on your individual needs, raised beds can take many forms, making them quite practical as well as beautiful.

Nearly anything that holds soil and maintains shape is suitable to build a raised garden bed. Wood, concrete, bricks, stones, or containers that are situated in tiers can all be used for a raised bed. Normally, wood is the most commonly used; you should try to stay away from using any timber which has been pressure treated, however, as the chemicals that are used to treat the wood can get into the soil and harm plants.

Typically, raised garden boxes are laid out in a rectangular pattern approximately 3 feet in width. This layout allows all areas of the bed, including the center, to be easily accessible.The length of a raised vegetable garden mainly depends on your particular landscape needs. The depth of raised garden boxes generally require at least 6-12 inches for the proper root development of plants.

Creating paths between the beds makes the maintenance easier and looks attractive, too. You can create this effect by adding a layer of plastic or other gardening fabric between each bed and covering it with a suitable mulching material, such as gravels or pebbles. The pathways should be wide enough for easy accessibility to the beds with additional room for a wheelbarrow. Generally, a width of approximately 2 to 3 feet is sufficient.

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Growing your own veg can save you money!

Home grown vegetables can save you money as well as being extremely satisfying.


If you are growing vegetables in the hope of saving money here are some suggestions for crops which can deliver real cost savings. When buying seeds, be sure to choose varieties which do well in your region. Even within regions there are ‘micro-climates’ which affect growing conditions, so check locally for advice about recommended varieties for your locale. The prices shown are all estimates at the time of composing this article. Prices may of gone down but more than likely gone up!

1. Broccoli
Broccoli costs about £1.50 a pound, which is pretty cheap. The Central head weighs from 0.3 to 1 pound, so you get a fair amount of broccoli for the price. After cutting off the central head, many side shoots will grow below, and will equal two to three times the original crown. If you grow ten broccoli plants you would produced about 2 pounds each, so you would grow about £30 worth of broccoli for a cost of about £10. The amount of money saved is not enough to get excited about, but the convenience of having fresh-picked broccoli available for 6 – 8 months is a real bonus.
Broccoli is a cool-season crop, and can be grown both as a spring and a fall crop. Broccoli is a heavy feeder and requires soil rich with organic matter. Before planting, compost and peat are worked into the soil, and lime and rock phosphate if needed. Broccoli is highly nutritious and has been deemed an anti-cancerous food. This vegetable is a good source of Vitamin A, calcium, and riboflavin (or vitamin B2).

2. Tomatoes
If we assume that tomatoes cost £2 to £4 a pound for this comparison.
If you planted four plants of a large variety of tomatoes for example (Big Beef), two cherry tomato plants (Sun Gold), and maybe two standard tomato plants. Each of the larger plants would produced at least 15 large beefsteak tomatoes weighing 1 pound or more. An estimate would be a total of 80 pounds of tomatoes (worth £100 - £130 ) for a cost of about £40.
All plants can be planted in the same 6’ x 12’ plot. The cherry tomatoes provide an early harvest, the large tomatoes are used for summer and fall eating, and the meaty paste tomatoes are good for freezing. Standard tomatoes also make excellent fresh or cooked salsa and sauces. Having a ready supply of tomatoes for cooking during the winter months adds value, since the price of tomatoes goes up in winter.


3. Bell peppers
Green bell peppers cost about £1.50 at a supermarket, and yellow and red peppers are even more expensive due to their extended ripening times. Pepper starter plants, however, cost about £1 each at a local nursery. If you planted ten pepper plants and each plant produced at least six peppers and let most of the pepper crop mature until they turn red , they taste sweeter than green peppers a rough estimate is that a £10 investment would yield about £100 in peppers. Easy to grow, peppers are commonly started early in small pots and transplanted when it’s warm enough outside. Pick off any small peppers that may form on transplants or the plant growth will be stunted. Pick the green peppers as soon as they reach size; this will stimulate new fruiting and increase the yield per plant. You can leave some plants unpicked if you want the peppers to sweeten and turn yellow or red; however, these plants will produce fewer peppers.


4. Winter Squash
Winter squash varieties cost between £1.29 and £1.99 a pound. (This is mid-winter pricing, which is more costly.) Squash plants yield about 40 squash, weighing 4 lbs each on average, which adds up to about 160 pounds. This is worth between £200-£300. Squash starter plants are available for about £2 each.
Winter squash are a favorite among gardeners because they’re easy to grow, don’t require weeding once established, and most importantly, they keep through the winter to provide a valued vegetable for eating all winter and spring. The squash bed does need to be richly prepared before planting. If you have space to spare, then growing winter squash makes sense.

5. Lettuce
You may have noticed the price of lettuce has risen considerably in the past two years. A red leaf lettuce could cost £1.79 for a small bunch. (And the Spring Mix, a ready to serve assorted lettuce mix can cost £4 per 300 grams!) If you grow your own lettuce, from a £2 package of seeds you’ll recoup the cost within a few weeks and enjoy your own fresh lettuce for months. Be sure to plant only a small amount of seed, or the unharvested mature lettuce will bolt. Save the remaining seed for replanting every two to three weeks throughout the growing season. This will ensure a steady supply of fresh greens for the table.
Iceberg takes longer to mature and when ready it gives too much lettuce at one time also the head of the lettuce harbors more slugs. The leafy varieties are easy to harvest by picking the outer leaves, and this lets the plant continue to grow and produce.

6. Garlic
The price of a garlic bulb ranges from £1 to £5 a pound, homegrown garlic, grown from cloves saved from a previous crop, cost less than £0.50 a pound to grow.
Garlic is one of the easier crops to grow, but over-watering when the plants were mature can lose your crop. Garlic is often grown over winter which makes good use of garden space. Weeding is important as garlic does not like competition. Harvesting on time and curing properly are important for producing bulbs with good keeping qualities.

The figures used in this article are approximate. We did not weigh every tomato or leaf of lettuce. And the list is by no means exclusive. There are other crops which are cost-effective to grow, and some of the crops listed on this page may be difficult to grow in some regions.
As any gardener knows, growing vegetables is more than about saving money. Growing your own vegetables is healthier for the family because the produce is fresh and (hopefully) grown without chemicals. It is better for the environment by reducing the cost of food transport, there are educational benefits for the children, and oh yes, the vegetables will taste so much better!

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Painting bare wood doors

How to get a professional finish when painting new bare wood doors.

Wooden doors have a variety of colours, textures and conflicting grain patterns, all of which need to be painted seperately, however the end result must look even, especially when painting a new wooden door.

This is a easy to do guide to Painting a bare wood door step by step:

Following the grain of the wood, rub down using a medium grade sandpaper.

Using white spirit on a cloth, wipe away the dust.

Any cracks, voids or holes should be filled with cellulose filler, woodfiller or putty. The filler should be left slightly proud of the hole and then sanded back with fine sandpaper.
Doors being painted in a clear varnish or waxed will need to match the colour of the door with a filler or putty of the same colour. If no exact match is available in a pre-mixed form, purchase small quantities of both light and dark colours and mix your own.

B & Q , Wickes and many other DIY retailers stock a product called Paint Knotting Fluid or of a similar name. Use this over any knots in the wood, this helps to avoid stains on your paintwork caused by resin slowly bleeding out of the wood.

Finally remove all dust and debris by wiping the door down, including the edges, with white spirit and a clean cloth.

A good coat of primer should always be apply to bare wood. Make sure this is worked well into the woodgrain and covers any knots thoroughly. To gain a professional finish once the primer has dried, rub the door down with a fine sandpaper and then a clean cloth to remove any dust.

Using undercoat and preferably by the same manufacturer as the top coat, apply a layer. For dark wooden doors you may need to use a fine sandpaper and give a gentle rub of the dried undercoat and reapply another coat.

The top coat of gloss or vinyl satin can now be applied, taking care to check over completed areas to remove drips and paint build-ups.

There are technics for painting doors to help reduce runs and these will be posted very soon.

The picture attached shows a good order in which to paint your door.

We cover painting and decorating in Middlesex, Surrey, Buckinghamshire and Berkshire (please see the links below)

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Laying turf, a users guide.

Laying turf

Getting started.
Turf can be laid all year round, however frosty conditions should be avoided and laying turf in extended periods of hot and dry weather will require additional care and attention.
Only a few tools are needed to lay turf; a wheelbarrow, a rake, a long knife, a spade, some planks, a garden hose and a sprinkler.


Your new turf will grow best when your soil is prepared in such a way as to encourage deep, rapid rooting. Turf needs just four things (in the proper proportions) to grow; sunlight, air, water and nutrients. Grass plants obtain three of these essential factors from the soil; air, water and nutrients. You must prepare your soil, the quality of the soil and its preparation will greatly affect the quality of the lawn. The correct depth of soil with the correct structure will ensure that the grass roots penetrate evenly and deeply. This will make the lawn more drought resistant, a more efficient water and nutrient user and will lead to a denser sward of grass plants which helps to crowd out weeds and gives a more visually appealing lawn. Poor soil and poor preparation will cause turf to deteriorate over time.

Calculating how much turf and topsoil you require

To calculate how much turf is required, measure the length and width of the area to be turfed, multiply one by the other to give you the amount of rolls required. Measuring in metres is easiest as each standard roll of turf covers 1m². Then add 5% for shaping etc

To calculate how much topsoil is required, measure the length, width and depth of the area to be covered, multiply these together to give you the volume required.

Remove the existing lawn using a turf cutter, which are available from all reputable hire shops or a spade and some hard work.

Preparation.
You need a minimum of 100mm (4"), ideally 150mm (6") of good soil (the deeper the better). The soil should be loosely turned over and free from surface stone, clods, other debris and perennial weeds.
Digging over or rotovating the soil before laying turf is essential. Once the soil has been loosened it should then be lightly compacted. The best way to do this is to walk over the whole area and then again at right angles to the first direction. Then rake the surface to a fine tilth and make sure that the surface is level. This may take some time, but it is worth it, as if the surface is uneven it will result in your lawn being uneven, which will have an adverse impact on the appearance of the lawn.
Ideally you should water the soil a couple of days before your turf arrives. Not only will this provide water for the roots of the turf, it can also cause the prepared soil to settle which can then be raked level again just before the turf arrives.


Laying the turf
Turf should be laid out immediately, as when it is rolled up it is effectively slowly dying as the leaves are not receiving any sunlight.
Start laying the turves, preferably along a straight edge, butting closely end to end. On subsequent rows stagger the joints brickwork fashion. Planks should be placed on newly laid turves for walking along and working from.
Lightly firm down the turves with the head of a rake or piece of wood to ensure good contact between the turves and the soil. Never use a roller on freshly laid turf.
Always push turf into a joint; never stretch the turves by pulling them. Any remaining cracks can be filled with a light soil and tamped down.
The turf can be simply cut using a long knife or hand saw cutting spade around edges and features.


Watering your new lawn is the single most important step you need to take to establish a beautiful and healthy lawn.
Always water newly laid turf immediately and for several days after laying until the turf is firmly rooted. On hot days, you may need to commence watering large lawns prior to laying all the turf.
Ensure that the new lawn is never short of water and that the water has percolated through to the underlying soil. Lift the corners of the turf to check the soil below.
Water repeatedly until the turf is well established.
If rainfall is experienced you still need to check that the lawn is receiving sufficient water.
First thing in the morning or in the evening are ideal times to water your new turf so that less water is lost evaporation.
Once established, occasional watering during dry periods should be adequate.


Be prepared to mow your new lawn within as little as 3 days, if this can be done without disturbing the turf. If turf is dislodged, replace it and allow the turf more time to establish before recommencing mowing.
Don’t delay. Mowing encourages establishment, however most people wait too long before mowing. Turf will accept light traffic almost immediately, although it is recommended that you keep off it other than for mowing for the first few weeks.
Never remove more than one third of the grass blade length.
For the first few cuts remove just the top quarter of the grass blade. Over the next few cuts gradually lower the mowing height down to 25mm (1").
Alternate the direction in which you mow your lawn.
Clippings do not have to be collected if they are minimal, provided sunlight is reaching the blades of grass. Clippings in small amounts return nutrients to the soil encouraging a healthy lawn.

Sowing a new lawn.

Sowing a new lawn

Prepare the site
Dig the area and remove large stones and roots of perennial weeds. Add Enriched Lawn Soil to improve the water-holding capacity and structure of the soil. Level and firm the surface by raking and treading over the surface.
Fallow the site
Allow the dormant weed seeds to germinate and after a couple of weeks kill off this top growth with Weedol 2. Apply a general fertiliser to the surface and rake in while you level again. A balanced plant food ensures quick establishment of new grass.
Sow the seed
Wait until the soil is evenly moist. The sowing rate is 35g/sq.m (35g = a large handful). Sow half the seed from left to right and the rest from top to bottom to achieve even coverage. Rake the seed into the surface and ensure the soil remains moist until germination occurs.
Keep the soil moist
In autumn and early spring rains should keep the soil evenly moist. In dry weather water the seed occasionally in the evenings.
After care
Germination will be seen in 2-3 weeks depending on temperature. Lightly trim the grass to a minimum of 4cm when it is 5-8cm (2-3”) long overall. Then mow every couple of weeks gradually reducing the cutting height to 2.5cm (1”). Wait at least six months before applying a lawn food.

Untidy edges.
Untidy lawn edges, where the grass is growing into the surrounding borders, are easy to correct. Simply use a pair of lawn-edging shears to cut away any long grass that is beginning to encroach into the borders. Ideally, you should do this after every mowing.
If this seems hard work, which it isn’t, or you have a lot of edging to do, many line trimmers have a head that can rotate through 90° and so be used as an edger. Most will have a roller guide to ensure you cut in the right place and so tidy up your lawn edges beautifully.

Uneven lawn edges.
If the lawn edges are generally ragged and uneven, you can use a sharp spade or, better still, a half-moon edging iron to re-cut them. To ensure good, straight lines, use a short plank of wood or similar as a cutting guide. If you prefer perfect wavy edges, then use a garden hose, which can be used to map out your curves and again act as a cutting guide.
You may want to re-cut the edges once a year for the perfect looking lawn. This is especially true if your lawn sits on light, sandy soils as these crumble away easily.

Broken edges.
Broken edges not only make the lawn and garden look untidy, but they also make mowing and edging more difficult. To improve the look of your lawn and to make mowing easier, you should make some quick and easy repairs.
Use a sharp spade or half-moon edging iron to cut out a square section of turf that contains the broken edge. Undercut the turf to remove it and turn it around through 180 degrees, so that the broken edge is now within the lawn and one of the straight edges aligns with the lawn edge. Fill in the broken area with sieved garden soil or potting compost, level and re-seed.
Make sure you keep the grass seed well watered during dry periods and within no time at all you’ll have a perfect looking lawn with the crispest edges around.

Lawn edging.
Where grass continually grows into the border or where the lawn edges constantly look untidy and so make mowing difficult, you may want to consider installing a permanent physical lawn edge.
These are available from good garden centres and DIY stores and can be made from corrugated iron or, better still, plastic. These are driven into the soil along the side of the lawn and make a permanent edge that you can easily mow over.
Or, of course, you could install a brick edging, but this is more expensive and needs more time, effort and some bricklaying skills.

Lawn moss treatment

Moss treatment

A serious problem in spring and autumn that is most often found where drainage is poor and the lawn is in the shade. Moss is the name for a group of primitive non-flowering plants that quickly spread as a spongy mass on undisturbed soil.
They reproduce from millions of microscopic spores produced on the leaves that float away from the mother plant on rainwater.
When found in a lawn, moss is a good indicator that:
Ground remains wet for long periods
Nutrient level of the soil is low
Soil is compacted and lacks organic matter
Grass may be cut too short or even scalped down to bare earth
Area is shaded from regular sunshine
Burning off moss with a suitable lawn treatment is easy, but unless some of the conditions that favour the plant are changed, then the moss will return, springing up from spores that remain on the soil surface.
Apply a lawn treatment containing a mosskiller and then try to remove the causes. Spiking will improve drainage and over-seeding with a grass seed mixture especially for shaded areas will improve the vigour of the lawn.

How to treat moss.
Don’t try to rake out the moss before it has been killed by a lawn treatment because this will only spread the spores around and make matters worse. Then rake out the debris. Now comes the hard bit. To prevent the moss from returning you need to take action to improve the conditions for the grass and make it inhospitable for the moss.

Mowing
Check the cutting height of your mower. Never scalp a lawn too short. This will weaken the grass and leave the soil open to moss invasion. Where moss is a problem leave the grass so that it is at least 2.5cm (1”) long at all times. Mow regularly, at least once a week, to encourage the spread of grass plants. In autumn and winter leave the grass even longer. See recommended cutting heights in our lawn cutting section.
Drainage
Improve drainage so the soil doesn’t remain permanently wet. This means spiking the affected area to let in air, improve drainage and generally reduce the compaction of the soil. There are two methods. For slight moss problems drive a garden fork into the area at 15cm (6”) intervals as deep as possible. Where returning moss is a continual problem use a hollow tine tool that can be driven into the lawn to remove plugs of soil at regular intervals. These plugs need to be brushed off the lawn and the holes filled with good soil. This enriched dressing will improve the organic content of the soil, improve drainage and reduce compaction. As a result, roots of grass plants will be encouraged to root even deeper and the grass should become thicker and healthier.
Avoid watering the lawn in summer unless the grasses are wilting from lack of moisture. If watering is essential, spike the area with a garden fork to reduce run-off and to ensure good drainage of any excess water. In areas that get water-logged regularly you will need to build a soak-away system to take away any excess water. This could be a simple soak-away sunk at the lowest point of the lawn. Dig a hole 60cm (2ft) square and 1 metre (1yd) deep. Fill the bottom 60cm with broken bricks and other rubble – top this with a 15cm layer of small stones topped off with a layer of free-draining top soil. If the lawn still remains wet, then you may need to dig out gravel tunnels 30 cm down which will naturally take water from the lawn to the soak-away.

Remove shade
Wherever possible cut back branches of trees and reduce the height of hedges to allow the sun to reach all areas of the lawn. Sun and wind will dry out the soil surface and moss will therefore be discouraged. If shade can’t be reduced, bite the bullet and turn this area of lawn into a bed and plant up with shade loving plants.

Feeding
Starved grass can’t dominate the playing field of your lawn unless it receives some supplementary energy. Feeding the lawn in spring, again in the summer and finally with an autumn dressing will help no end. It helps grass to strengthen over-winter and control any existing moss that would otherwise spread throughout the dark days of winter. A well-fed lawn is thick, strong and vigorous because it encourages the growth of grasses and inhibits the growth of moss.

Aerating
In autumn take out plugs of soil with a hollow tine tool and brush Enriched Lawn Soil into the holes that have been created and leave a thin layer of the material on the soil surface so this can be pulled into the ground by worms. This is especially beneficial on light sandy soils that are shallow.

Reseeding
Where bare patches have occurred as the moss dies off, re-seed the area with a shade tolerant grass seed mix.
Rake the soil to make a fine seed bed and sprinkle the selected grass seed over the area lightly. Cover the seed with good soil and keep moist until the grass seed germinates. If the whole lawn is thin, then over-seed the complete lawn with a sprinkling of this grass seed applied in the autumn or spring. In just a few weeks you will have a thick, dark green lawn that will be strong enough to fight off moss problems.

Lawn weed treatments

Weed treatment

Treating weeds.
Good management of the lawn including regular feeding and correct mowing will encourage a thicker, greener lawn vigorous enough to repel serious invasion by weeds and even moss.
However, seeds will blow in from other areas of the garden and bird droppings will also contain weed seeds, so keep a regular eye out for weed problems, and deal with them as soon as you see them.
Getting rid of lawn weeds isn’t necessarily a matter of digging them out. Thankfully, selective lawn weedkillers that kill weeds without harming the grass are available. So there’s no excuse for a lawn full of dandelions, daisies, buttercups and white clover. Treating the average sized lawn (100 sq.m) with a lawn treatment takes around 10 minutes and can cost less than £10 to feed, weed and control moss in one simple application.

Lawn weeds are a major headache that can stop you fully enjoying your lawn. A strong, healthy and well-fed lawn will be able to deal with weeds and moss far better than one that isn’t fed and looked after properly.

Every year up to a quarter of the grass in the lawn can die, more after a cold, wet winter. Overseeding – sowing new grass seed into the existing lawn – can rejuvenate the lawn and bring it back to life.
Overseeding improves the lawn’s appearance and by increasing the density of the grass you will also reduce weed and moss invasion.

Trim the edges of the lawn whenever you mow to keep crisp lines that clearly show you care for your lawn.
Cut lawn edges with a half-moon edging iron to ensure they look neat and well shaped.
Scarify with a spring-tine rake to remove dead grass, thatch and other debris that will otherwise prevent healthy grass growth.
On heavy clay soils, aerate the lawn in early spring with a garden fork or hollow-tined aerator to improve drainage and help reduce waterlogging problems and so make the grass grow better.
After aerating, add a top dressing to further improve drainage and ensure healthy grass growth.
Water the grass if it desperately needs it. Water thoroughly so the roots are well watered. If you just wet the top you will encourage roots at the surface, which are much more vulnerable to drought damage.

Lawn symptoms and cures.

Lawn problems:

Worm casts
A problem in the autumn which shouldn’t be ignored. When squashed, the casts make ideal seed beds for weed seeds. When they appear, let them fully dry and then sweep them away with a stiff broom brush before mowing.


Lawn thatch
Leaving clippings on the grass will gradually build thatch – a layer of dead organic matter at soil level. Thatch prevents water getting through and increases the likelihood of disease. Rake out thatch in September or early spring with a garden rake or scarifier. To prevent it coming back, collect the grass clippings if your mower has a grass box, or rake up all clippings after each mowing.


Pale grass
This is a symptom of malnutrition or a alck of feeding. Without the correct balanced diet, the lawn will stay weak and pale as it has used up available nutrients in the soil. Supplementary feeding with nutrient-rich lawn treatments is the only way to replace these lost foods. Simply watering will not solve this problem.


Scalped patches
This problem results from mowing the grass too short. Shaving the lawn doesn’t save time and often leaves bare patches vulnerable to invasion by weeds and moss. Fill in any obvious hollows with Enriched Lawn Soil and cut the grass to a minimum of a couple of centimetres in length.
Bald patches can be reseeded.

Seasonal lawn care made easy.

Seasonal lawn care, watering and cutting tips.

Summertime Care:

Watering
The most important thing we can do is give it a much deserved drink. Water at times when the moisture is likely to soak in rather than evaporate, early morning or late evening is the best. Try to avoid giving your lawn a light sprinkling every day, as this can cause the roots to grow shallow and be prone to drying out. When it’s dry, a good soaking once or twice a week is much more beneficial for your lawn.
It’s worth noting that a well fed and maintained lawn will have a stronger and deeper root system, enabling it to withstand and recover from long dry periods.

Mowing
Try to mow your lawn at least once a week, keeping the height of the grass to about 1 inch. Ensure all clippings are collected and composted, but avoid cutting too short as this will encourage weeds and moss to enter your lawn. In really hot, dry weather your lawn will become stressed and it is advisable to reduce the amount of mowing, and allow your grass to grow longer.


Springtime Care:

A simple lawn care programme will give you a lawn to be proud of, keep it in perfect condition and make friends and neighbours green with envy.
The secrets of success to a great looking lawn are:
Regular and correct mowing
Feeding with a spring and summer lawn fertiliser
Treating weeds and moss
Dealing with bare patches

Mowing
The most important lawn care job for a fantastic lawn is correct and regular mowing. You need to cut the grass whenever it is growing – which is likely to be weekly or even more frequently as the weather warms up in spring.
The aim should be to keep it at the same height all through spring. For most lawns this should be about 2.5-4cm (1-1.5in) high. For lawns that take a lot of wear and tear the height is better raised to 5cm (2in). For very shaded areas, mow at a height of 7.5cm (3in).
Mowing too short and, as a consequence weakening the grass, is the quickest and easiest way of allowing weeds and moss to become established and spoiling the lawn.


Autumn Care:

Keep the surface clear
If fallen leaves are a problem in your garden try to remove them from the lawn as regularly as possible. If you wait until all the leaves have dropped, your grass will be fighting for survival under a cold damp blanket of moist, rotting vegetation. Try to do the job at least weekly throughout autumn to avoid any problems of disease. A rake, besom broom or mechanical collector will help you collect the leaves for your compost heap. Alternatively choose a lawn mower, which will do the job quickly and easily.
Rake the surface

If you have left the grass box off the mower during the summer or you have a hover machine which doesn’t collect the grass cuttings, then a layer of thatch will have formed on the soil surface. Not only does this layer prevent rain water getting through but it prevents grass plants from spreading and encourages diseases.
There are plenty of tools which can be used to remove this thatch – a spring-tine rake, ordinary garden rake or a mechanical raker. A couple of weeks before you carry out this scarifying, check for moss invasion and treat this with a product that contains a mosskiller such as Autumn 2 in 1. If you don’t treat the moss with a suitable mosskiller before raking it out, you may inadvertently spread the spores around the lawn and make the problem worse.
Help the water penetrate

Compaction is one of the biggest problems with lawns. But aeration in autumn will quickly help to strengthen the grass by improving drainage. Drive a fork or other spiked instrument into the top few inches of soil will allow rain and air to penetrate more deeply and at the same time relieve any compaction.
Without help, vital rainwater may run off a dry lawn and be wasted. A hollow-tine fork is ideal for the job because it takes out several plugs of earth to a depth of about four inches. These wide air channels not only relieve the packed-down effect created by pathway walking or children’s feet playing, but also aerates the soil. September is the best time to practice this deep spiking, followed in the spring with shallow pricking with a slitter aerator or solid-tine aerator.


Watering lawns:

Most lawns need regular rain to replace the moisture that grass draws from the soil. Grass can survive a couple of weeks without rain, but after this period you will notice symptoms of stress. Grass may turn silvery blue and turf will look flat as the grass wilts and loses its natural springy nature.
To avoid these problems, here’s what to do…

Prick the surface.
If the lawn is baked hard then water will tend to run off the surface rather than soak into the soil. To prevent this from happening prick the surface all over with a garden fork.

Keep to the law
Hose pipe bans restrict watering potential, even if you are not metered. Stay within the law as fines can be heavy. Resourceful gardeners have water butts to store rain water and use bath water and other waste sources to keep lawns looking good.

Water thoroughly.
During a drought water the lawn thoroughly once a week rather than giving light sprinklings every day. Water at a cool time of the day, either late at night or early morning.

Adding nutrients while watering.
lawn care products that feed, weed or kill moss can be added to your watering can and applied at the same time as you water your lawn. As they are diluted with water.

Lawns are one of the most intensive and time consuming areas of maintenance in a garden, but the rewards of a well kept lawn are great. In the summer months healthy grass grows vigorously and will need cutting at least once a week, and care must be taken not to cut the length too short. Following the simple rules below can help bring out the best in your lawn and help keep work to a minimum.

Cut regularly.
Cut the grass as often as you are able to. Mowing encourages thicker growth, the development of fine grasses, eliminates coarse grasses, and deters flowering and seeding of weeds. The chart below is a good indication of the schedule of grass cutting you should adhere to under normal seasonal conditions.
Month Recommended Mowing Frequency
March Every 2 weeks
April Every 10 days
May – August At least once a week
September to October Every 10 days
November to December Top off if weather is mild

Adjust the height.
Never give the lawn a close shave. It should be long enough to remain healthy but short enough to be visually pleasing. Here are some optimum heights for different lawn types. Do not mow more than a third of the height of the grass in one cut.
Lawn type Early spring, autumn, periods of drought Late spring and summer
Multi Purpose Lawn
3cm (1.5”)
2.5cm (1.0”)
Ornamental Lawn
2cm (0.75”)
1.5cm (0.5”)

Trim the edges.
Trimming around the lawn gives a sharp edge that is very pleasing to the eye. You can buy a half moon edging iron that should only be used once or twice a year. At other times use long-handled edging shears to maintain a neat appearance every time you mow.

Sharpen the blades.
Have the blades of your mower sharpened at least once a year. Blunt mower blades are very damaging to your lawn because they rip the grass instead of cutting it. This results in blades of grass that turn white at the tips and become more prone to lawn diseases.

Stain block and Flashing.

Stain block and flashing

Always ensure the source of the leak is fixed and that you allow time for the water to dry out before decorating.
Some stains may need a second coat of stain block, allow to dry between coats.
Allow the stain block to dry fully before decorating.

Stain blockers, sometimes referred to as “stain kill” primers, do a great job in sealing off stains. Some work better than others. The solvent primers form tighter films, and usually work better than their latex counterparts for most stains.

Oil is probably the next best stain blocker. The biggest problem with the oil stain blockers is the very strong odor they omit. You must ventilate the area well during and after use, or you will be badly affected by the fumes.

Waterbased stain blockers work on many stains, and are a suitable option, when they can be used. They don’t work well on water stains, or water soluble stains. Their strength is the water clean up, and far, far less odor they omit. Waterbased stain blockers are nevertheless good sealers, where a bleeding stain is not the problem.

When you have a stain, it is best to apply two coats of stain blocker to be sure that the stain will not migrate partially through the first coat. Usually, two coats of the right stain blocker will suffice.


Flashing:
the problem with spot priming with stain blockers is It depends on the lighting in the room and where the spot priming will occur, but usually you can’t get away with spot priming with a stain block primer. The primed spots will look whiter and / or shinier than the rest of the wall/ceiling., this is known as “flashing”.

How to avoid flashing
First, don’t use a stain blocking primer if you don’t need to block a stain. PVA primers work great for a cheap first coat over properly prepared surfaces. PVA primers as a rule are not problematic in terms of flashing. They are our primer of choice over drywall repairs and spackled areas because they are not prone to flashing problems.

Total priming is the antidote to flashing
If you need to use a stain blocker to block out a stain, or a bonding primer (usually these are stain blockers too, but not always), then you will have to prime the area in total, or at least from breaking point to breaking point.

Since two coats of stain blocker is the best prescription for most stains, it is best to spot prime the stain first, then prime the whole wall or ceiling (or room if you have multiple stains). This will serve two purposes: by blocking out the stain AND by evening out the sealed area to prevent any spot flashing.

You can usually use a waterbased stain blocker for the total primer. If you seal the stain in first with an oil based stain blocker you can do the total priming over the top with a latex stain blocking primer / sealer. This allows you to use a low odor product over the large area, making the total priming less “odiferous“.

You may tint the total prime coat to match the finish paint color (or gray for deep tones) to act as a first coat. Generally, for pastels and off whites, you will use a 50% formula of the finish paint color into the primer to arrive at a pretty good match to the finish paint color. Deep tones will require a shade of gray instead of a color match for good hiding (you will not be able to tint a deep tone from a white primer - ).

Fitting new skirting boards

Fitting new skirting board takes longer than you would think, but don’t let that put you off. It’s a very rewarding job, and not too tricky either.
Skirting boards are both decorative and practical. They hide the often untidy junction between wall and floor with a smart wooden moulding, and soak up the inevitable knocks from shoes, vacuum cleaners and children’s toys.

There are lots of different styles of boards available, ranging from the simple chamfer-topped variety through to multi-faceted mouldings that are a feature in their own right. Your local timber yard will stock a wide range of skirting, but if you want something a bit different, rummaging around at an architectural salvage outlet can be very rewarding. Wherever you buy your skirting board from, check that it is straight, undamaged and as free of knot holes as possible.

If you are planning to lay a new wooden or tiled floor, do this before you fit the skirting boards for the neatest finish. If you’re carpeting, fit the skirting boards first. Carpet fitters like to have a clean, straight edge to work to and in the future you won’t have to tear the skirting boards off if you want to change the carpet.

Steps-by-step guide to fitting new skirting board

Measuring up:
First, you’ll need to know how big your room is. Measure the total length along the wall that the skirting board will cover, and add 20%, just to make sure.
Buying Materials:
For fitting skirting board to brick and plaster walls you’ll need:
Enough lengths of skirting board for the size you measured in the beginning. Skirting board usually comes in lengths of 2.4m
Wood primer paint
Top coat paint
Decorator’s Caulk (and a cartridge gun for it)
Tape measure
A medium sized paint brush
Brush cleaner
Medium tooth hand saw
Skirting board mitre block
Countersink (like a drill bit, but cone shaped)
4mm twist drill bit
6mm (red) wall plugs (about 1 for every meter of skirting)
6mm masonry drill bit (check wall plug for exact size required)
Enough 4x50mm countersunk screws (1 or 2 for every meter of skirting)
A small hand drill ideally with hammer action
Screwdriver to fit the screws
Painting skirting board

If you have time for paint to dry before you start fitting, it’s much easier to paint skirting board before you fit it. However you’ll still need to touch up the paintwork here and there after fitting. Rest the skirting board on some thin pieces of wood before you start, preferably on a couple of small work benches or something similar. If you rest the skirting on old newspaper, the newspaper will stick to the paint. Not a good thing!
Start with a single coat of good wood primer. Once dry, follow this with a couple of coats of topcoat in your chosen colour. Oil-based gloss topcoats can take a week to thoroughly dry, so I hope you’ve found somewhere for it out of the way, and protected from the rain! Water based gloss paints dry much faster, but the quality of finish is not as "glossy".

Cutting to size:
"Measure twice, cut once" as they say!
Where skirting board joins together at a 90° corner, they should be cut at 45° each, as shown below. It’s far too easy to cut the corners the wrong way around, so sketch out how you plan to fit the skirting board, and measure the lengths you need first.
Using a mitre block is a great way to ensure your cuts are exactly 45°. Accuracy is key, and you'll usually find a simple mitre block can offer greater accuracy than an electric mitre saw.

Fitting:
Skirting board should be attached firmly to the wall. If you have wood flooring, it’s usually fitted on top, but for carpets, fit the skirting first, and lay the carpet to meet the skirting board. If you’re plastering, you should do this before fitting the skirting.
Skirting board can be fixed to the wall using glue, nails, or screws. Glue is quick and simple, but you may find it difficult to press the board really close to the wall, thus leaving big gaps to fill. Nails are good if you have something wooden to attach the board to, but are useless for attaching to plasterwork.
If you’re attaching the board to a plastered or brick surface, first drill 4mm holes in the board where you want to attach the screws. These should be about half way up the board, and in a line along the board, not more than 1m apart. Each section should be held by at least two screws, but if your wall is none too straight you may want to put the screws closer together to pull the skirting against the wall.
Use a countersink to ensure that the screw head will be flush with the surface of the board when it’s attached, then hold the skirting board up to the wall, and mark through the holes with a screw or the drill bit to pinpoint where you need to drill into the wall.
Now use the 6mm masonry bit in a hammer action drill to make a hole to the depth that the screws extends out of the skirting board. In each hole fit a wall plug, then screw the board in place.
When all the skirting is in place, use decorator’s caulk to fill the gaps, then paint over the caulk and screw heads to leave a neat finish, and beautiful new skirting board!

Different types of weed control.

The different types of weed control can be grouped into three categories: mechanical, organic and chemical. Mechanical weed control includes simply pulling the weeds out by the root as they emerge. The drawbacks to this type of weed control are that the weed may not be completely removed, other plants may be uprooted in the process, and neighboring root systems may be damaged. Another type of mechanical weed control involves simply spacing plants close together in order to crowd out unwanted weeds. Flaming is a non-chemical method of weed control, which employs the use of a propane torch to burn weeds on driveways and sidewalks.

Some gardeners prefer a more organic approach to weed control. Mulch is a favorite type of weed control, and very effective. It deprives the weeds of much needed light. Using layers of newspaper or landscape fabric under the mulch boosts its effectiveness. Other non-toxic types of weed control include salt, vinegar, boiling water, dish washing soap and alcohol. While these may kill existing weeds temporarily, they rarely solve a long term weed problem.

The third type of weed control is chemical, which involves the use of herbicides to kill or prevent weed growth. Because many herbicides are specially formulated for specific types of weeds, a gardener must understand the type of weed he is facing. Just like plants, weeds come in annual, biennial and perennial forms. Different types of herbicides include pre-emergence, post-emergence and spot treatments.

Types of landscaping fabrics:
Gardeners often use landscape fabric as a mulch to keep the soil moist, to allow air to flow in and out of the garden beds, and to keep the weeds in check. Landscape fabric or geotextile is also a simple base for bark mulch. Thick landscape fabrics often cost more but may last for a decade or more, while thin landscape fabrics may only last for a few seasons.
Landscape fabrics, also called geotextiles, are used as weed barriers and erosion control. They are usually composed of a synthetic such as polypropylene, and can be perforated, woven, nonwoven or spun-bonded. It is important to understand the characteristics and limitations of landscape fabric before choosing to use or not use it for a project.

Perforated Landscape Fabric:
Perforated landscape fabric has small holes. The size of the holes determines how much air and water flow through the fabric. Perforated fabrics form a lightweight barrier in garden beds.

Woven Landscape Fabric:
Woven landscape fabric is woven in a criss-cross pattern. This landscape fabric is dense and stops the sun from reaching weeds under the fabric. This prevents the weeds from germinating. Of course, other plants will not germinate either, so you will need to have holes in the fabric for your existing plants.

Non-woven Landscape Fabric:
Needle-punched or non-woven landscape fabric is made for the long term. It is a good liner for areas where you are constructing a small wetland and want to contain water or where you want to contain soil over many years. Non-woven landscape fabric is very durable and will not tear.

Spun-bonded Landscape Fabric:
Spun-bonded landscape fabric looks like a spider's web and is very hard to tear. This makes it a good choice for areas where tree roots might poke through or where animals might tear at the fabric. It is also excellent for lining pathways. Air and water move easily through this fabric.

Here are some of the advantages and disadvantages of using landscape fabrics:

On the positive side, landscape fabrics
permit air and water movement into the soil;
help control weeds; and
help maintain even soil temperatures.

Landscape fabrics are practical and may be used for large areas such as:
Weeds in Garden Landscapes, such as shrub and ornamental flower beds where there is definite spacing between plants - for instance, ornamental grasses, daylilies and Rudbeckia that are not expected to spread;
around trees;
under stone sidewalks;
under decks;
behind retaining walls; and
under large expanses of stone and mulch-decorated natural areas where the intention is to achieve a "Japanese garden sort of look."

On the negative side,
they are expensive as compared to sheet plastic (black plastic) mulch;
photo-degrade (break down in the presence of UV light);
usually need mulch cover to slow photo-degradation and improve appearance of fabric-covered areas; only last approximately 5 years
The worst aspect of using landscape fabric is forgetting that it is only a barrier that prevents germinating weed seeds from emerging from soil into landscaped areas. Seeds will land and germinate in both organic (wood chips) and inorganic (stones) mulches covering the fabric. Fine feeder roots from these germinating seeds easily penetrate these porous fabrics. The unpleasant result of neglecting to remove volunteer seedlings is a weed / mulch / landscape fabric sandwich firmly attached to underlying soil.

An often-overlooked characteristic of landscape fabrics is that they are effective for only about five years before breaking down and needing replacement. In addition, mulch settles and in situations like on slopes, this settling causes shift and sometimes movement of mulch leaving large patches of fabric showing. Landscape fabrics are not an "install once and forget" method of landscape maintenance.

However, when used properly, there is definitely an acceptable benefit for using these fabrics in landscape maintenance. So much so, that each year more types and sources become available in both commercial and precut residential sizes.

How to fix fence posts

Our preferred method of Fixing fence posts in our experience is NOT to use met spikes as they often spin as they are driven into the ground. If they hit a stone or rock they tend to twist. Our preferred method is to dig a hole and use post crete to fix the post securely in place. Post crete goes hard within 10 – 15 minutes and gives you a straight sturdy post.
There are some occasions when concreting is not an option, for example when the neighbours patio is right on the boundary. It might not even be a fence post you wish to secure maybe a Gazebo or Pergola needs posts near paving or boundaries. In these circumstances you could use spikes which are simply driven into the ground with a sledge hammer but it is really advisable to put a driving block into the fence post spike first. This allows you to hit the spike as firmly as you like without bending the sides of the post holder.
On a concrete surface that you do not wish to break up, we suggest you bolt it down using Rawl bolts which are placed into holes drilled into the concrete and then tightened. As the head of the bolt is tightened the bottom sheath expands, gripping the concrete.

Can I use exterior paint inside my house?

Can I use exterior paint inside my house?

There are several reasons why you should not use exterior paint indoors.

First, exterior paints contain mildew inhibitors. They used to use mercury;
I'm not sure if they still do. But in any event, you DON'T want these
chemicals outgassing into your house. Knowing that interior surfaces can have the same problems as exterior surfaces, for example moisture in your bathroom or heat in your kitchen, you may want to turn towards an exterior paint to solve the problem because of its wonderful benefits of withstanding the elements, but this isn't a good solution. In fact, an exterior paint can cause more harm than good by using it indoors because of the VOC's (Volatile Organic Compounds), or what's commonly referred to as paint fumes that it gives off.

Second, exterior paints are designed to "chalk" as they weather. This is
definitely undesirable inside your house.

Third, exterior paints are formulated to be more flexible than interior
paints, because they are subjected to a much wider range of temperatures. This means that they don't dry as hard which means they'll always be a bit soft
or sticky.

It might seem so, but that's not the way it is. A good-quality interior latex
paint is plenty good enough for your bathroom. Use a bathroom / kitchen paint for these areas to stop mildew forming.

If you have mistakenly used exterior paint inside, there are specific things you must do before you re-paint an interior surface that was already painted with an exterior paint. A paint specialist can help, but it is usually recommended to remove as much of the old paint as possible, sand the surface, wash and dry the surface, and then apply a stain-blocking primer to the walls like KILZ before you paint. This type of primer will put a barrier between the old paint and the new paint.

Remember that an exterior paint is made to withstand the elements because the weather can cause many problems if the paint's viscosity isn't up to par. The sun can cause the color to fade, and the rain and snow can cause moisture buildup which may lead to cracking, peeling, and mold and mildew problems