Different types of weed control.

The different types of weed control can be grouped into three categories: mechanical, organic and chemical. Mechanical weed control includes simply pulling the weeds out by the root as they emerge. The drawbacks to this type of weed control are that the weed may not be completely removed, other plants may be uprooted in the process, and neighboring root systems may be damaged. Another type of mechanical weed control involves simply spacing plants close together in order to crowd out unwanted weeds. Flaming is a non-chemical method of weed control, which employs the use of a propane torch to burn weeds on driveways and sidewalks.

Some gardeners prefer a more organic approach to weed control. Mulch is a favorite type of weed control, and very effective. It deprives the weeds of much needed light. Using layers of newspaper or landscape fabric under the mulch boosts its effectiveness. Other non-toxic types of weed control include salt, vinegar, boiling water, dish washing soap and alcohol. While these may kill existing weeds temporarily, they rarely solve a long term weed problem.

The third type of weed control is chemical, which involves the use of herbicides to kill or prevent weed growth. Because many herbicides are specially formulated for specific types of weeds, a gardener must understand the type of weed he is facing. Just like plants, weeds come in annual, biennial and perennial forms. Different types of herbicides include pre-emergence, post-emergence and spot treatments.

Types of landscaping fabrics:
Gardeners often use landscape fabric as a mulch to keep the soil moist, to allow air to flow in and out of the garden beds, and to keep the weeds in check. Landscape fabric or geotextile is also a simple base for bark mulch. Thick landscape fabrics often cost more but may last for a decade or more, while thin landscape fabrics may only last for a few seasons.
Landscape fabrics, also called geotextiles, are used as weed barriers and erosion control. They are usually composed of a synthetic such as polypropylene, and can be perforated, woven, nonwoven or spun-bonded. It is important to understand the characteristics and limitations of landscape fabric before choosing to use or not use it for a project.

Perforated Landscape Fabric:
Perforated landscape fabric has small holes. The size of the holes determines how much air and water flow through the fabric. Perforated fabrics form a lightweight barrier in garden beds.

Woven Landscape Fabric:
Woven landscape fabric is woven in a criss-cross pattern. This landscape fabric is dense and stops the sun from reaching weeds under the fabric. This prevents the weeds from germinating. Of course, other plants will not germinate either, so you will need to have holes in the fabric for your existing plants.

Non-woven Landscape Fabric:
Needle-punched or non-woven landscape fabric is made for the long term. It is a good liner for areas where you are constructing a small wetland and want to contain water or where you want to contain soil over many years. Non-woven landscape fabric is very durable and will not tear.

Spun-bonded Landscape Fabric:
Spun-bonded landscape fabric looks like a spider's web and is very hard to tear. This makes it a good choice for areas where tree roots might poke through or where animals might tear at the fabric. It is also excellent for lining pathways. Air and water move easily through this fabric.

Here are some of the advantages and disadvantages of using landscape fabrics:

On the positive side, landscape fabrics
permit air and water movement into the soil;
help control weeds; and
help maintain even soil temperatures.

Landscape fabrics are practical and may be used for large areas such as:
Weeds in Garden Landscapes, such as shrub and ornamental flower beds where there is definite spacing between plants - for instance, ornamental grasses, daylilies and Rudbeckia that are not expected to spread;
around trees;
under stone sidewalks;
under decks;
behind retaining walls; and
under large expanses of stone and mulch-decorated natural areas where the intention is to achieve a "Japanese garden sort of look."

On the negative side,
they are expensive as compared to sheet plastic (black plastic) mulch;
photo-degrade (break down in the presence of UV light);
usually need mulch cover to slow photo-degradation and improve appearance of fabric-covered areas; only last approximately 5 years
The worst aspect of using landscape fabric is forgetting that it is only a barrier that prevents germinating weed seeds from emerging from soil into landscaped areas. Seeds will land and germinate in both organic (wood chips) and inorganic (stones) mulches covering the fabric. Fine feeder roots from these germinating seeds easily penetrate these porous fabrics. The unpleasant result of neglecting to remove volunteer seedlings is a weed / mulch / landscape fabric sandwich firmly attached to underlying soil.

An often-overlooked characteristic of landscape fabrics is that they are effective for only about five years before breaking down and needing replacement. In addition, mulch settles and in situations like on slopes, this settling causes shift and sometimes movement of mulch leaving large patches of fabric showing. Landscape fabrics are not an "install once and forget" method of landscape maintenance.

However, when used properly, there is definitely an acceptable benefit for using these fabrics in landscape maintenance. So much so, that each year more types and sources become available in both commercial and precut residential sizes.